tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-38484079177732786402024-03-13T11:23:00.885-07:00F22 trimaran building by MennoBuilding a Farrier designed F22 (www.f-boat.com) in the Netherlands.Mennohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14171061735762814136noreply@blogger.comBlogger141125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3848407917773278640.post-35215611428750557142020-05-22T04:07:00.000-07:002020-06-02T12:05:23.497-07:00Fail, fail & fail: Outboard modification for improved reverse thrust.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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My yamaha outboard has an exhaust port straight above the propellor. Because of this [or so I thought] , reverse thrust is miserable, and I had some really nasty situations not being able to stop/maneuver the boat in strong winds.<br />
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I first tried tot block the outlet with some foam and drilled two outlet ports about 10 cm higher.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEwyBQepbxyq3jPwKuAgeJTbXD1-mirZTof6fPRyx-mE7t04UBhYDu7p5Anom44RqGf8ImP07v7f7H099gg8eQxdNh2KGqE36T9ZzDqpKvx1N1mhTgXwVawFWvrJZ5GMttdh8VlwVuuA4/s1600/IMG_20190607_191742018.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEwyBQepbxyq3jPwKuAgeJTbXD1-mirZTof6fPRyx-mE7t04UBhYDu7p5Anom44RqGf8ImP07v7f7H099gg8eQxdNh2KGqE36T9ZzDqpKvx1N1mhTgXwVawFWvrJZ5GMttdh8VlwVuuA4/s400/IMG_20190607_191742018.jpg" width="300" /></a><br />
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Unfortunately this was a bit too simple to be KISS. Reverse thrust was great but in forward I had lots of ventilation problems because of the exhaust gasses being sucked to the propellor. I just lost way too much forward thrust.</div>
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I tried to overcome this with an extended cavitation plate.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH2_5mZ2bDv8Fd8YfejjWJeHy9mux2b1Yd9vC8DC6lCXV6k8XIizRACQQxQvv04MQUO9n263Mcw3R4TF6kxbjDOrBBuqurYvl3ivY8X0_WdVr_dF4iOQKVfpSL7hK_r-IYFhckajDSr1o/s1600/IMG_20190813_163859783.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH2_5mZ2bDv8Fd8YfejjWJeHy9mux2b1Yd9vC8DC6lCXV6k8XIizRACQQxQvv04MQUO9n263Mcw3R4TF6kxbjDOrBBuqurYvl3ivY8X0_WdVr_dF4iOQKVfpSL7hK_r-IYFhckajDSr1o/s400/IMG_20190813_163859783.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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But..... unfortunately this didn't work either.<br />
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Searching the internet I found an over 30 year old (!!!) boatingmagazine <a href="https://books.google.nl/books?id=oJ3aQMG-J1MC&pg=RA5-PA121&dq=reverse+thrust+outboard+modification&hl=nl&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi725PhpcfpAhWI16QKHSTuBS4Q6AEIKDAA#v=onepage&q=reverse%20thrust%20outboard%20modification&f=false">article</a> by Jan Alkema (a fellow dutchman!) about exactly the same problem. His trick is to redirect/'bend' the exhaust gases upward instead of downward to the propellor with a simple tunnel made of some metal plate. <br />
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I made this tunnel with polyester molded over the outboard leg (polyester is terrible to work with, but the good thing is it hardens quickly enough to release the molded part within the hour and take it home).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje63qPHg-z_7yCTzHy7Z6hXEHO-ORoR2Ga29SjOvg87sM4ZG-OuAdKIKQptJWBgPxYpDz6d3cBwWWRzkC6LSEpG0XBNPPeGBFkPjbwvO6EMrC5eq0Qwlh7QRgjmJaHZA33Uka0XaUxY_w/s1600/IMG_20200504_155221150_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje63qPHg-z_7yCTzHy7Z6hXEHO-ORoR2Ga29SjOvg87sM4ZG-OuAdKIKQptJWBgPxYpDz6d3cBwWWRzkC6LSEpG0XBNPPeGBFkPjbwvO6EMrC5eq0Qwlh7QRgjmJaHZA33Uka0XaUxY_w/s320/IMG_20200504_155221150_HDR.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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With the molded part and some wood and tape I made a mold for the whole tunnel.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj21La7hzBG1e9DNdUL6GCKS-QYO5LxDwPvqMRKjTOf8Xgy5sQoK6MYO_WLVvGz_P1PzHrWZtqT4GkdUY-Uqx3EvUhIxsvV7Eat12d6LjNoF2mWvCxjITnWNcpcfxTc39ruc7t4cztTnpE/s1600/IMG_20200515_093858151.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj21La7hzBG1e9DNdUL6GCKS-QYO5LxDwPvqMRKjTOf8Xgy5sQoK6MYO_WLVvGz_P1PzHrWZtqT4GkdUY-Uqx3EvUhIxsvV7Eat12d6LjNoF2mWvCxjITnWNcpcfxTc39ruc7t4cztTnpE/s320/IMG_20200515_093858151.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Molded part laminated with epoxy/glass and some plastic on top to press all the glass together without getting too messy.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmx27XnM4RBMVY00x31XNksUtnlnScNM_MRwP2_C_Lk5E1YEmQtVRGa9C9dObVEE632PHhUqImankNARBsFxgZ-7yrH_XaLElNkBdZsfwmVny6mJqYd3cJ7kmHyH9Y1rvmZjWiKSniaMQ/s1600/IMG_20200517_102303037.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmx27XnM4RBMVY00x31XNksUtnlnScNM_MRwP2_C_Lk5E1YEmQtVRGa9C9dObVEE632PHhUqImankNARBsFxgZ-7yrH_XaLElNkBdZsfwmVny6mJqYd3cJ7kmHyH9Y1rvmZjWiKSniaMQ/s320/IMG_20200517_102303037.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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No it is not pretty, I don't care as long as it works.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3uBU4lig4xeYK48YFVJQhFvqk7HasW0tmRmnoy31MK6m3qaziWO0reyKlUHKaGV5q_d7aRrQnKZ5052yMdSnCEvmivAkn99_bZFIIs9m1T6l6e1LaD0S2eW45bqySVoG7Q3SCGU8_GmI/s1600/IMG_20200517_140122638_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3uBU4lig4xeYK48YFVJQhFvqk7HasW0tmRmnoy31MK6m3qaziWO0reyKlUHKaGV5q_d7aRrQnKZ5052yMdSnCEvmivAkn99_bZFIIs9m1T6l6e1LaD0S2eW45bqySVoG7Q3SCGU8_GmI/s320/IMG_20200517_140122638_HDR.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Below: part bolted to the cavitation plate. I covered the holes with some ducktape, and will cover them permanently with some glasstape with polyester wrapped around the leg. Polyester shrinks a lot and will thus result in nice tight fitting band.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmCqBIE9nkhz4U7ZKHUtq1F6i-YgTSGwy2TGKZ2RvJ4W1ZXyR_KH6itoacB-0RMpEPBX2zsBJ0salUc9X1wrUCFoFQ6EzAx1ka3vun2kFWRRVZXCaeocsLAzUESwogd0FKEPSNsLMb4Bo/s1600/IMG_20200517_140605250_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmCqBIE9nkhz4U7ZKHUtq1F6i-YgTSGwy2TGKZ2RvJ4W1ZXyR_KH6itoacB-0RMpEPBX2zsBJ0salUc9X1wrUCFoFQ6EzAx1ka3vun2kFWRRVZXCaeocsLAzUESwogd0FKEPSNsLMb4Bo/s320/IMG_20200517_140605250_HDR.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
First impression: better reverse thrust and so far I noticed no ventilation problems forward. Only exception: going from full throttle reverse to full throttle forward the prop wouldn't bite immediately. I can live with that and leave the setup as it is.<br />
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<b>Should have done this years ago.......<br /><br />I thought...... but ........</b><br />
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After a sail a few days ago with lots of wind I had big problems with forward thrust so I removed the modification.<br />
After some googling I noticed on sailing-forums that lots of other people with exactly my outboard (the yamaha 6 hp F6C four stroke) complain about terrible reverse power and are talking about fitting a 'high thrust' propeller (with bigger blades and lower pitch). So I've probably been working in the wrong direction, and should have started with another propeller (as someone also noted in the comments on this post).<br />
I found a shop that sells a 'yamaha double thrust' propeller that according to the shop fits my outboard (although it seems to be designed for Yamaha outboards with a through-prop exhaust which my outboard doesn't have) and will give higher thrust. <br />I wil try it and else I will dump my outboard which I'm starting to hate, and buy one of the sailpower outboards of mercury or tohatsu that 'according to internet' - in contrast to the standard Yamaha F6C - work for sailboats.Mennohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14171061735762814136noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3848407917773278640.post-59958934155921997502019-06-06T03:00:00.000-07:002020-04-30T03:42:34.324-07:00antifouling / finsulate<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Lots of problems with fouling in the salt water of Grevelingenmeer in the Netherlands. I have tried a new anti-fouling product: finsulate. It's basically a sticker wrap with fibres (bit lik a carpet) which should prevent plants and animals to stick to the hull. </div>
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First: put the boat on blocks. To do this I unfold the boat on the trailer (put smallish wheels on the trailer so the floats clear the wheels while unfolding). I wedge a piece of timber at the top of the cabin entrance to minimise flex. Then I jack up the (axle of the) trailer on two sides about 30 cm, put blocks under the floats, lower the trailer and pull the trailer away.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4R0cfaWp5y76j3M8P0ocqqIfRKoJ4Gi9vxFBL8nNvoObuMxNy5x9pJUMO5YqnVVX3OCOQP3Yu021TJ9Jx66fYfwTteJxxi70A-XboWwDD5_rizSf-LDJAZgd5e2VlSoTg9BZtWTESZMg/s1600/IMG_20180519_161823327_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4R0cfaWp5y76j3M8P0ocqqIfRKoJ4Gi9vxFBL8nNvoObuMxNy5x9pJUMO5YqnVVX3OCOQP3Yu021TJ9Jx66fYfwTteJxxi70A-XboWwDD5_rizSf-LDJAZgd5e2VlSoTg9BZtWTESZMg/s320/IMG_20180519_161823327_HDR.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Next: removing old antifouling and epoxy priming. Then wrapping it with finsulate (the dark carpetish-stuff in the photo below).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2noSRvXAbRgodlLE-ffoOBP4KVxGxiOFDwZS7Ixri6h-MvkKF9N3sPFLEWTVbVrYMGPXTq14NkMnlsmppt6J5LBr_owW9vgp1GEp9NlGjc1yX9YhpxN8PJ5CiNfkAez_u7nUVijfZtNM/s1600/IMG_20180522_211752754.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2noSRvXAbRgodlLE-ffoOBP4KVxGxiOFDwZS7Ixri6h-MvkKF9N3sPFLEWTVbVrYMGPXTq14NkMnlsmppt6J5LBr_owW9vgp1GEp9NlGjc1yX9YhpxN8PJ5CiNfkAez_u7nUVijfZtNM/s320/IMG_20180522_211752754.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Unfortunately, at the end of the season it was apparent the finsulate - or at least the 'speed' version with short fibres I used - was not working for my situation, lots of growth made sailing impossible. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu-doxG_aTsH3DujjzfIrW-E233cqRyTOy_rWCF9UjqcO1QN9YTm9GOLp2XBEXiz6sMFCMrcAKrX4EIRS_vxln-hnjp6W-4ep5Mg9F4Mo4kyLokNAEPNyAA4aWzHFI5SkB8H4DLe86ytA/s1600/IMG_20190410_120427525_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu-doxG_aTsH3DujjzfIrW-E233cqRyTOy_rWCF9UjqcO1QN9YTm9GOLp2XBEXiz6sMFCMrcAKrX4EIRS_vxln-hnjp6W-4ep5Mg9F4Mo4kyLokNAEPNyAA4aWzHFI5SkB8H4DLe86ytA/s320/IMG_20190410_120427525_HDR.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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So, boat back on stands to remove the finsulate. Tried all kinds of methods to do this the easy way, but nothing worked. I had to cut it loose bit by bit with a window scraper (the kind with a Stanleyknive blade). What a pain in the....</div>
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This time i invested in four foldable welding stands to support the boat. I wish I had done this earlier, this works great. Putting the boat on these stands takes me single handed no more than 20 minutes, taking it easy.</div>
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Now the boat is again painted with self polishing antifouling paint. In the Netherlands it has been decided proper working antifoulings with high copper ratios may only be used for commercial ships, not for recreational ships. </div>
This has led to lots of people selling&buying commercial antifouling paint under the counter, or buying it in our neighbour countries (Germany and Belgium) where it is legally available for recreational craft. Other people try to enhance the antifouling properties of the recreational paint by adding copperpowder. <br />
Maybe the effects of banning these paints without a working alternative people can switch to are worse than the intended positive (enironmental) effects.<br />
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Next: modification outboard engine exhaust for better reverse stopping power.<br />
<br />Mennohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14171061735762814136noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3848407917773278640.post-12433601607628536242018-06-27T02:54:00.000-07:002018-06-27T02:57:57.645-07:00Boat trailer extension bar<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
After having my car sliding from a slippery ramp half into the water I thought it was time to make a trailer extension to be able to get only the trailer and not the car in the water.</div>
It's put together with some galvanized steel square tube and an extra trailer hitch ball. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0x-OXM6MVLoPFgXgbVvfWTAhH-DI94ZXS0K_sPpBcw8NIZ0D7UWR2nKorOsT2RI_iIhh0jee514mirQ386sJZv0gekxY7PC_UyDP7JH-TrDV86rFCKUtYlHILnH-S37DFIzQ576XLEvY/s1600/IMG_20180513_115201972.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0x-OXM6MVLoPFgXgbVvfWTAhH-DI94ZXS0K_sPpBcw8NIZ0D7UWR2nKorOsT2RI_iIhh0jee514mirQ386sJZv0gekxY7PC_UyDP7JH-TrDV86rFCKUtYlHILnH-S37DFIzQ576XLEvY/s400/IMG_20180513_115201972.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The extension has a reces at the far end which slides over a bolt in the tongue-assembly (the bolt is the rusty bolt near the parking-brake-lever). The extension bar locks on the ball by just lifting up the car-end of the extension.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ0Sem5eh8e3Kt9mhbeKBs5j3VyJzPQyN-Vcy6g4aEbsxJLpUzBh6V1ivKwdFtlVO63-Q-D8rK58ODvcc9aYv1epwakxAZ6IrqC-K45HWXXhuu8acsMwyyPDYclGJExuBCtcvyf9iZ0Ys/s1600/IMG_20180513_115208791_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ0Sem5eh8e3Kt9mhbeKBs5j3VyJzPQyN-Vcy6g4aEbsxJLpUzBh6V1ivKwdFtlVO63-Q-D8rK58ODvcc9aYv1epwakxAZ6IrqC-K45HWXXhuu8acsMwyyPDYclGJExuBCtcvyf9iZ0Ys/s400/IMG_20180513_115208791_HDR.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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To carry the extension there is a ball on the trailer and a u-frame on the first crossbar: the back end of the extension lies in the u-frame and the front end is fixed by clicking it on the ball.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5K_seibggQ9KsrYKT3Z0Olruq50a-H9kWtjkXS6hlQ8ZVPtgM3FdCV4I_qX8av1JwjYCY2TI_XtvMw-Drcvvshb88_lE0jqMdtLgmMfFBGOpYwV84YcyOcBwo4hIi7yZEZVVwDwyrgzM/s1600/IMG_20180513_115219796_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5K_seibggQ9KsrYKT3Z0Olruq50a-H9kWtjkXS6hlQ8ZVPtgM3FdCV4I_qX8av1JwjYCY2TI_XtvMw-Drcvvshb88_lE0jqMdtLgmMfFBGOpYwV84YcyOcBwo4hIi7yZEZVVwDwyrgzM/s400/IMG_20180513_115219796_HDR.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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It works, although I always find the forces on this kind of equipment a bit daunting. Especially when the trailer is half way in the water and the back of the boat is already floating, the forces on the front end of the trailer which carry the rest of the weight of the boat must be quite high.</div>
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Next: antifouling with finsulate wrap.</div>
<br />Mennohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14171061735762814136noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3848407917773278640.post-47396247549428223192018-06-07T01:12:00.003-07:002018-06-07T01:15:55.565-07:00Square top mainsail - top batten trickUntil recently I always had to put in or remove the top batten of the mainsail when hoisting and dropping the mainsail. On internet I found a very easy solution to keep the batten in the sail. <br />The trick is to not fix the top of the sail permanently to the top slider, but to make a tackle with dyneema with one end fixed to one of the lower sliders. Pictures are probably better than words, so....<br /><br />
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<img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHjvrfcu0kIMhknkAuA03yFupxnO8L1WTg3shD9pBSz3bebRVJl3Jr5owrnzgh91hEQ-yoUuXSnhP3VtgbsPOtpgcFbYrU7Zk8cJIGHoGdNGkksRdOCRaNGYXXnQNXaqeDhxICex04T68/s320/IMG_20170611_101207951.jpg" width="320" /></div>
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Once the mainsail is raised and the distance between the lower sliders and the topslider increases, the tackle is tensioned and the top of the sail is fixed to the topslider.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNA0WCdXBiwA2UPomjUzbi30_qfnUSeTR1edzwr33B1HcHky70qR15Z9CUwzrtWS0S1WlZrd_no9jDEHMu0FGmPCP6NqppcKLJdH07_xCCaz584ApOqfCYwE-Ojf7pnCoD1V6U2r5Wqw8/s1600/IMG_20180512_112727625.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNA0WCdXBiwA2UPomjUzbi30_qfnUSeTR1edzwr33B1HcHky70qR15Z9CUwzrtWS0S1WlZrd_no9jDEHMu0FGmPCP6NqppcKLJdH07_xCCaz584ApOqfCYwE-Ojf7pnCoD1V6U2r5Wqw8/s320/IMG_20180512_112727625.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">sail down</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEawCaMJPt5aQE-CJPSUiBnIiocMvV1JTfezdZf17Ou7iMrRVaXZLNPXlUk_j68qUFL4mh3EZankmu5fNRWH9SZXt5XRmsemBEKyfs505IwxsmJCLBTOTRlclYIF8QbYjWS6dmzBMJsgg/s1600/IMG_20180512_112747872.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEawCaMJPt5aQE-CJPSUiBnIiocMvV1JTfezdZf17Ou7iMrRVaXZLNPXlUk_j68qUFL4mh3EZankmu5fNRWH9SZXt5XRmsemBEKyfs505IwxsmJCLBTOTRlclYIF8QbYjWS6dmzBMJsgg/s320/IMG_20180512_112747872.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">starting the hoist: lo and behold it works</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy4BdxvwRSqHpeaFDsv5bgTMn4osRtlCF6sr5AXzwou6UffZGGRGdSvk5aPAqPymI4b4KBEyaiBfEcqRLl8gdW8olwhElzG-QGHWYvmeLgQ9z1bkI5ww8K3m5Y3PsuD7XzRP3xGBT-jLA/s1600/IMG_20180512_112805871_BURST001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy4BdxvwRSqHpeaFDsv5bgTMn4osRtlCF6sr5AXzwou6UffZGGRGdSvk5aPAqPymI4b4KBEyaiBfEcqRLl8gdW8olwhElzG-QGHWYvmeLgQ9z1bkI5ww8K3m5Y3PsuD7XzRP3xGBT-jLA/s320/IMG_20180512_112805871_BURST001.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tackle is tightening and will be tight with sail hoisted about two meters.</td></tr>
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First I had doubts it would work, but at least for my size of sail it does. <br />
The dyneema rope is slippery enough to not get stuck and the topslider doesn't get stuck either.<br />
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By the way: the top block on the mainsail is a climbing block: very strong, light and durable and way cheaper than sailing-blocks.<br />
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Next post: trailer-extension<br />
<br />Mennohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14171061735762814136noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3848407917773278640.post-74477828958986041312018-06-01T00:02:00.001-07:002018-06-07T00:50:19.390-07:00New anti-torsion cable - PERFECT!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The standard anti-torsion rope on my jib has never impressed me much. Especially with a lot of wind, when you need it to work, it doesn't. The top of the jib would not furl because the line was not stiff enough (and probably because there is relatively little tension on the anti-torsion line compared to fixed mast-boats).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSjY5OIZsfVIHFdSnvra1JyHAlnYtvYQ7Mflbz4vWbGnMGQopS9k6or6eIXdIyNGkBZafvvY8uzWcsq3QgSPcFz8Fcvg58uFp_AvL0N2b-l8ZZ7KO813rUXFNoe0gFVWciphoXNZjElDM/s1600/IMG_20170510_202807133.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSjY5OIZsfVIHFdSnvra1JyHAlnYtvYQ7Mflbz4vWbGnMGQopS9k6or6eIXdIyNGkBZafvvY8uzWcsq3QgSPcFz8Fcvg58uFp_AvL0N2b-l8ZZ7KO813rUXFNoe0gFVWciphoXNZjElDM/s320/IMG_20170510_202807133.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Old anti-torsion Rope</td></tr>
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I replaced the line with Harken Reflex anti torsion rope. This rope is a normal anti-torsion rope but with a braided stainless steel cover round that rope. What a difference! I am usually a bit sceptical about claims of new products, but this works perfect for my setup.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisPyKvfkb0OhTqegx4vSUhAPb35jWuySaY8zZ9nzF9CFBpIDilkO446ZOBKtUteao3PqU3DtizsxhMIl10uqeyKaDlomXYeHy6GGz7j9MHLlyI2oIUg98zjyTzllPdr3Hjjfi4bAQjU10/s1600/IMG_20170518_164937011.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisPyKvfkb0OhTqegx4vSUhAPb35jWuySaY8zZ9nzF9CFBpIDilkO446ZOBKtUteao3PqU3DtizsxhMIl10uqeyKaDlomXYeHy6GGz7j9MHLlyI2oIUg98zjyTzllPdr3Hjjfi4bAQjU10/s320/IMG_20170518_164937011.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Harken Reflex Rope</td></tr>
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The rope can be bought with expensive end-terminals, but I made them very cheap with aluminium press-sleeves, just for the fun of trying to replace some stuff with diy-parts. </div>
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Here is a test-piece with a normal alu press-sleeve I used:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbrnDLC6oFIsFXGOetF9TkTZypoa3wucRqr3RSKeHgRbw0sjvjMmRf9rPVNj-Vqkl4scVhNE_VOIbJNKYiAf9FjtrNxDvNMTGcT6kqLOqxUgKWJh4SZWQ8Cd7FGYCxIMvSnT5qoxZcgTM/s1600/IMG_20170518_154351650.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbrnDLC6oFIsFXGOetF9TkTZypoa3wucRqr3RSKeHgRbw0sjvjMmRf9rPVNj-Vqkl4scVhNE_VOIbJNKYiAf9FjtrNxDvNMTGcT6kqLOqxUgKWJh4SZWQ8Cd7FGYCxIMvSnT5qoxZcgTM/s320/IMG_20170518_154351650.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Unlike the official terminals it is a permanent fix: to remove the sleeve it has to be carefully cut into multiple pieces:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaxIdx-uFZehTLRJJ9oNL0DDx-xHnNrdLaPD2F9uhiOVs9eCQXNYuPIMk99U1r4XP8IjVyyoZICw6pyMBu3IEfRhKi3Fw4tpJErLXCPqnDn18iIwrYtnbAf-eigQR-8i1ai6LHqEsHsms/s1600/IMG_20170518_154718281.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaxIdx-uFZehTLRJJ9oNL0DDx-xHnNrdLaPD2F9uhiOVs9eCQXNYuPIMk99U1r4XP8IjVyyoZICw6pyMBu3IEfRhKi3Fw4tpJErLXCPqnDn18iIwrYtnbAf-eigQR-8i1ai6LHqEsHsms/s320/IMG_20170518_154718281.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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For extra security i tapped some m5 machine screws into the press sleeve to further lock the cable, but in hindsight this is overkill.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhswkdgqw9mdvp2ofnsWE9cYkXHEhTK31AvnEHMsRi7Hlm9UdBsZXz05GJQfGdvDEZ4m3BCI-1TG-GhX4-nvyTkwQFo4rTr4dMPyO7sFLMaAyAouEtqTcZ76exElaVcupLYtxToQ0XlV4/s1600/IMG_20170518_160333069.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhswkdgqw9mdvp2ofnsWE9cYkXHEhTK31AvnEHMsRi7Hlm9UdBsZXz05GJQfGdvDEZ4m3BCI-1TG-GhX4-nvyTkwQFo4rTr4dMPyO7sFLMaAyAouEtqTcZ76exElaVcupLYtxToQ0XlV4/s320/IMG_20170518_160333069.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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My cheap trick to press the sleeves, step 1: put sleeve in a vice with to big steel nails as 'press die' to (pre)form the sleeve.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6c8ITeH69IYR00pQKFwJdsuMFG1Aiw5DLrDL-oXgXtPcA2743DjTl1i9HIMIVV6GnDA1j32NMwweSpzVgPAmbzFsyKHfKZCo-_fl2-UrG_q4b50Oq8Pt27bW5xJKyK3KPwfBzqT7CMqI/s1600/IMG_20170518_162316098.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6c8ITeH69IYR00pQKFwJdsuMFG1Aiw5DLrDL-oXgXtPcA2743DjTl1i9HIMIVV6GnDA1j32NMwweSpzVgPAmbzFsyKHfKZCo-_fl2-UrG_q4b50Oq8Pt27bW5xJKyK3KPwfBzqT7CMqI/s320/IMG_20170518_162316098.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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My cheap trick to press the sleeves, step 2: use some threaded rod, some steel bar, a small hydraulic jack and again a steel nail to get some real pressure on the the already preformed sleeve:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpTKPDa1b2ApsFz1QMBZ3yAIgcwsTPoMeIOwV93XDE3hmtqwzKw9VpxOGjlwWMdx2Azl9nOR29LzEDyPqfhnoRVAqKdvUGWqebdjmJ_NL5i_mmJHcAWj4vl1sAaGqUtJfFFkEn9i4JJc4/s1600/IMG_20170518_162857321.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpTKPDa1b2ApsFz1QMBZ3yAIgcwsTPoMeIOwV93XDE3hmtqwzKw9VpxOGjlwWMdx2Azl9nOR29LzEDyPqfhnoRVAqKdvUGWqebdjmJ_NL5i_mmJHcAWj4vl1sAaGqUtJfFFkEn9i4JJc4/s320/IMG_20170518_162857321.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Next post: mainsail top batten-tackle....</div>
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Mennohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14171061735762814136noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3848407917773278640.post-39367169410108516362017-06-08T05:21:00.001-07:002020-03-02T04:56:50.152-08:00Bow nets<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I bought some regular dyneema SK75 and at a fisheries-supply- shop a 'netting needle'....</div>
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(I removed this image because unfortunately it is not possible anymore to show a small picture made by someone else on your hobby blog without running the risk of getting harrassed by claim-hyena-lawfirms for 'copyright infringment')</div>
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.... to knot my own bow nets. </div>
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I extended the nets a bit by using the all purpose-eye on the float to support the net. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdKml_jkM2ew4_eLT00bDkKSQGh4xIWZxFhWBhumqSzLNG6Sxo20RgXRQwNtWfOHfkCaOsvmDKtAfSsx26kyUlztrWkJKozfWYKIayVzDGn0_9mg2W-A9K_qfJ7-uMD6aA5w4lMrWK6yw/s1600/IMG_20170504_103549362%255B1%255D.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdKml_jkM2ew4_eLT00bDkKSQGh4xIWZxFhWBhumqSzLNG6Sxo20RgXRQwNtWfOHfkCaOsvmDKtAfSsx26kyUlztrWkJKozfWYKIayVzDGn0_9mg2W-A9K_qfJ7-uMD6aA5w4lMrWK6yw/s400/IMG_20170504_103549362%255B1%255D.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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Knotting the nets was good fun. I use the nets to store fenders, to attach the front mooring-line, and as some extra security while moving on the boat. Plus my children and wife like to use them to hang out while sailing in calm conditions.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb6AA-vhaLz0RjC0YyoXXJwtW0p7Qe5fh907wBWLp4d0NXehMnLLb0v0ULHreaNL_bHvoujLiaE1NG8b_f1MppcsIPsfUdrnM8cnmI_7Hdat2MXMfOu0iwU9TvaXvrB3obtR9idj4u2Zc/s1600/IMG_20170504_103625014_HDR%255B1%255D.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb6AA-vhaLz0RjC0YyoXXJwtW0p7Qe5fh907wBWLp4d0NXehMnLLb0v0ULHreaNL_bHvoujLiaE1NG8b_f1MppcsIPsfUdrnM8cnmI_7Hdat2MXMfOu0iwU9TvaXvrB3obtR9idj4u2Zc/s400/IMG_20170504_103625014_HDR%255B1%255D.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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<br />Mennohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14171061735762814136noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3848407917773278640.post-3289646000901799302017-05-22T06:17:00.003-07:002017-06-08T05:02:23.213-07:00floating hull scrubber<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
After my last post I dit some work on the boat and the trailer but my Phone with the pictures crashed. I will make some pictures of the trailer shortly and put them on my blog. </div>
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In the meantime:<br />
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My anti fouling is not up to the task of keeping the bottem clean enough. As an alternative to getting the boat out of the water and on stands to clean the bottom (can't do it on the trailer because I made the 'farrier-style' fitting tub on the trailer so most of the bottom is not in reach while on the trailer) I made a 'floating scrubber' with some pvc pipe, wood and a piece of doormat. </div>
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I didn't try to build it to last a long time, only to see if this idea would work.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2V-OqoWUpGWJliVKiJKtZxjMNJtmMWf3zjKO8xf5pb740a4nW0OjVkHMNFkr-ODRviHEPQzIDWVim8SAcprDgVpVM1PQA9regcUte794sVehahnK9XuFFhYSwu4NgNt_u0ps6rGickuw/s1600/IMG_20170502_102915898%255B1%255D.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2V-OqoWUpGWJliVKiJKtZxjMNJtmMWf3zjKO8xf5pb740a4nW0OjVkHMNFkr-ODRviHEPQzIDWVim8SAcprDgVpVM1PQA9regcUte794sVehahnK9XuFFhYSwu4NgNt_u0ps6rGickuw/s320/IMG_20170502_102915898%255B1%255D.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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The idea is the bend stick allows you to reach the whole bottom with the scrubber, while the buoyancy provides enough force to effectively scrub the bottom. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpt65LfqnRyFfzMQIiE_Ey4nI73IUIgfkiYAyTKG7F_BAIZVmo51mAhgixZpNMCyXY9BF9GZFVxoJPALpqqT1Lv3I5PwgCoorhKbwqr_f0r09Wovl9jX8eya7oeizLn0q4FH8vINLUP6I/s1600/IMG_20170502_111245911%255B1%255D.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpt65LfqnRyFfzMQIiE_Ey4nI73IUIgfkiYAyTKG7F_BAIZVmo51mAhgixZpNMCyXY9BF9GZFVxoJPALpqqT1Lv3I5PwgCoorhKbwqr_f0r09Wovl9jX8eya7oeizLn0q4FH8vINLUP6I/s320/IMG_20170502_111245911%255B1%255D.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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I used the scrubber while sitting in a small inflatable boat and it worked quite well. The scrubber was a bit too bouyant; I'll make another version with a bit smaller piece of PVC pipe and that will probably become my scrubber for the coming years.</div>
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Unfortunately it didn't get all of the fouling off, which was not a big surprise. The boat has been in salt water for over two years now. End of season I will get the boat out, do a very thorough cleaning and anti-fouling. After that I will use the scrubber as an extra to keep the bottom tidy.</div>
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Next post: bow nets.<br />
<br />Mennohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14171061735762814136noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3848407917773278640.post-68484498778685336682015-05-01T05:05:00.004-07:002015-05-01T05:09:57.619-07:00New tiller<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The way the rudder cassette on the F22 is designed is probably optimised for a boom-ed mainsail with the traveler in the middle of the cockpit. </div>
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With a boomless main the traveller is at the end of the cockpit, and a straight tiller is sticking too much 'up' to pass under the traveller. </div>
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I fixed this by shortening the tiller just as much as not to go before the traveller. It works ok, but I'd rather have a bit longer tiller. So....</div>
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I made a 'frankenstein-mock up' of a tiller with enough bends to move under the traveller with enough space to make sure the main sheet won't interfere too much with the tiller.</div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpQlBMW4OyiRxFlgSQv0zpnaULKMt9TJAOO1Pjyc2bLR1ozsQN637ZewVxVQ9oFtRILmpOvcM_C-ojjktuVAn51I4Ct2Jo22G-M0Qfsh8K9uRnjcE_l0CHPHoAXI19V1yeF0XiQG9PsCw/s1600/2014-11-02_12.55.41%5B1%5D.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpQlBMW4OyiRxFlgSQv0zpnaULKMt9TJAOO1Pjyc2bLR1ozsQN637ZewVxVQ9oFtRILmpOvcM_C-ojjktuVAn51I4Ct2Jo22G-M0Qfsh8K9uRnjcE_l0CHPHoAXI19V1yeF0XiQG9PsCw/s1600/2014-11-02_12.55.41%5B1%5D.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Frankenstein mock up attached to the original short tiller.</td></tr>
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Used the mock up to drwaw the outline of the new tiller on a piece of board and glued a foam blank...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYjCLeOhTIWhI7yfQo71Aro5tvYJn-m4iymj80507oIsQ1-XgviES8ioPqAnEcb-z5jFgBNLyVp73dqponeIXPN4pTNjbETUU_uJb9-9tYTlMELuiOpclE9S6oZj7a5j5wQJ5G-mJqvdc/s1600/20150330_181934%5B1%5D.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYjCLeOhTIWhI7yfQo71Aro5tvYJn-m4iymj80507oIsQ1-XgviES8ioPqAnEcb-z5jFgBNLyVp73dqponeIXPN4pTNjbETUU_uJb9-9tYTlMELuiOpclE9S6oZj7a5j5wQJ5G-mJqvdc/s1600/20150330_181934%5B1%5D.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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I used FEM analysis to calculate the thickness of carbon UD -sure... but only in my dreams. In reality I just put some tapered carbon UD leftovers on top and bottom of tiller and will see if it works. Tiller will subsequently be wrapped in some 200 gr glass tape.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJMF0Ekn5tXqH0QfLgnIdu11m5BaAUnJ0qCJB0qmozbcK7tcUuIw4kTt_tGXTcFnkQ_V1R2Ilud3Ed8vuyzssDLaJFb6ya-52P8xHKkXwCINlHBxTsMgPWwdk1hpWPEcDeFKD9kItvCb4/s1600/20150406_113530%5B1%5D.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJMF0Ekn5tXqH0QfLgnIdu11m5BaAUnJ0qCJB0qmozbcK7tcUuIw4kTt_tGXTcFnkQ_V1R2Ilud3Ed8vuyzssDLaJFb6ya-52P8xHKkXwCINlHBxTsMgPWwdk1hpWPEcDeFKD9kItvCb4/s1600/20150406_113530%5B1%5D.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">I have never managed to find a good way to laminate/wrap round objects/parts. This time I laminated the tiller and pressed the laminate by wrapping it in pieces of plastic and securing this by wrapping the whole tiller with paint-tape. it worked (no bubbles) but the laminate was quite rough/uneven.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFfRV24WudGJwT_1obfj-5WsTwaiRkvakYwy6sZMLA0bHr87JSGxzxgRI7qNqP59_c3DBp58OubtEDltcnJS6txduqNoDCJIpwqEPsahdh3L-SR3-DYvHSScGPDYT9vh1RwtuR5l83QYQ/s1600/20150406_151218%5B1%5D.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFfRV24WudGJwT_1obfj-5WsTwaiRkvakYwy6sZMLA0bHr87JSGxzxgRI7qNqP59_c3DBp58OubtEDltcnJS6txduqNoDCJIpwqEPsahdh3L-SR3-DYvHSScGPDYT9vh1RwtuR5l83QYQ/s1600/20150406_151218%5B1%5D.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">'bagging' with pieces of plastic and paint-tape.</td></tr>
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A tip I won't stop to repeat because it was such an eye-opener for me: use tile-cutting blades in a jigsaw or even better on a 'multimaster' type of saw to cut fiberglass. Blades last forever and hardly any mess and itching glassdust.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz3o4crmG7lRdJHMBDBFYbYZ30HJjhYKO7-6gn4TTRx_uyPJWGNeCH0FmOqvjSd90PT-WVr3RC1kN1-Ti1dZWQReNL6mrwHbk7GkzwD1O3hWP6t9RhqdQ_TAa0XtFryoT-CqlZW234ssU/s1600/20150412_103524%5B1%5D.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz3o4crmG7lRdJHMBDBFYbYZ30HJjhYKO7-6gn4TTRx_uyPJWGNeCH0FmOqvjSd90PT-WVr3RC1kN1-Ti1dZWQReNL6mrwHbk7GkzwD1O3hWP6t9RhqdQ_TAa0XtFryoT-CqlZW234ssU/s1600/20150412_103524%5B1%5D.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">getting ready...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvhTVu4rkbHNQY-fTqSQ0ZVZ9rVNdXwJEI7WGgpgPlc8-_lkIHAvCEuErxPR2xAQGWrFjBJaPjW4UFyABfAtGWhMV0FgQ3Df0EjUJc3XWa_qSh3VBZuNmGebixYgfMy2-9DZ8MfNFzcJE/s1600/20150412_103651%5B1%5D.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvhTVu4rkbHNQY-fTqSQ0ZVZ9rVNdXwJEI7WGgpgPlc8-_lkIHAvCEuErxPR2xAQGWrFjBJaPjW4UFyABfAtGWhMV0FgQ3Df0EjUJc3XWa_qSh3VBZuNmGebixYgfMy2-9DZ8MfNFzcJE/s1600/20150412_103651%5B1%5D.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">less than 30 seconds later it's finished</td></tr>
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Below the old and the new tiller. The new tiller is quite long, I hope it can withstand up-down forces if someone accidentally falls on it because it is a quite hefty lever.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwZoFjbot8hhLQ_QYLY9daYWARczOcrTcV98eVH4fj9153iTcibMLd49eK0l5syCtZQZG_gH1bWyLSsYk4194GWbJsm2vDjkbvzXHoUe86mvGOWxrY1N8pnbBM5EjlhrCWrr7WWMRPeuc/s1600/20150410_000357%5B1%5D.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwZoFjbot8hhLQ_QYLY9daYWARczOcrTcV98eVH4fj9153iTcibMLd49eK0l5syCtZQZG_gH1bWyLSsYk4194GWbJsm2vDjkbvzXHoUe86mvGOWxrY1N8pnbBM5EjlhrCWrr7WWMRPeuc/s1600/20150410_000357%5B1%5D.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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Using expensive and heavy joysticks on the F22 is a waste of money in my opinion. Cheapo grey pvc elektricity pipe works great: it's light, a bit flexible and most importantly it doesn't damage the paint of the boat when it's laying around in the cockpit.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeuVs79bkFew9DDjmNy7vRu28SOuOSL4AgOqTgTzKW9topxs6_tehIJQw4NL373MYWEnDQnJLYKxwqv5X4vOK3_GujUC5tY9gez4zaxhI90TGj2sqlXh0fsoQkWXHhOyngTxTK4PhWXRE/s1600/20150414_213043%5B1%5D.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeuVs79bkFew9DDjmNy7vRu28SOuOSL4AgOqTgTzKW9topxs6_tehIJQw4NL373MYWEnDQnJLYKxwqv5X4vOK3_GujUC5tY9gez4zaxhI90TGj2sqlXh0fsoQkWXHhOyngTxTK4PhWXRE/s1600/20150414_213043%5B1%5D.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">jostick with two pieces of pvc-pipe and a coupler made of reinforces hose</td></tr>
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End result below. I will first test the tiller and see if it works in real life, if the joysticks are mounted at the right spot etc.<br />
If it works I may put a remote control of the outboard on the tiller, by putting a motorcycle throttle and a shift-stick at the end of the tiller. Not sure yet if I will do it, as it will add complexity BUT on the other hand it will be so much easier to steer in tight situations on motor. Maybe to be continued....<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDY8DKEtTBe81NQ8jluaOiFRrQ-LPHM89D6REYsPv5w1vTu0ZHjeZaft2_lp8fut5MLSqqV9JWn-leyPSveIJvVKWAGl5XXhq-V0-zRSFBla5bkMouUBKiGYfcTxn8-Yp7V1ZtpkBrtVw/s1600/20150415_232332%5B1%5D.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDY8DKEtTBe81NQ8jluaOiFRrQ-LPHM89D6REYsPv5w1vTu0ZHjeZaft2_lp8fut5MLSqqV9JWn-leyPSveIJvVKWAGl5XXhq-V0-zRSFBla5bkMouUBKiGYfcTxn8-Yp7V1ZtpkBrtVw/s1600/20150415_232332%5B1%5D.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Next post: fitting cheapy death sounderMennohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14171061735762814136noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3848407917773278640.post-18068925597415918752015-04-23T01:51:00.004-07:002015-04-23T02:24:35.588-07:00Bending the jib traveler<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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After a long pause it is time to update my blog a bit. Unfortunately I lost some photos of last years, but luckily there are enough left to show most of the progress & projects.<br />
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I put a self-tacking jib on my boat (very nice for easy cruising, although not so efficient for going downwind as top of the jib twists too much because of the way the jib is sheeted) and originally I made a <a href="http://f22bymenno.blogspot.nl/2013/05/finally-building-something-again.html">straight traveler</a>. I thought this would work because with a straight traveler the jibsheet has maximum slack when going from one side to the other. I was wrong: with a bit wind the cars of the traveler would stop about 15 cm before the end of the traveler. So.... I had to put some radius in the traveler.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-OyRJDj2BfBvzJ_iqc0eGcOBoZIHAJf1vbWKALtIfTt3zWPIY_f4gRSaMlgTabbVNe9WukT7u2m_WrNpiySk3lbSO_XnoDnG4kRI5mre5SvRjXSccQTGjawsopVNfYE49l8dIIJOaJ_c/s1600/2014-04-03_18.40.39%5B1%5D.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-OyRJDj2BfBvzJ_iqc0eGcOBoZIHAJf1vbWKALtIfTt3zWPIY_f4gRSaMlgTabbVNe9WukT7u2m_WrNpiySk3lbSO_XnoDnG4kRI5mre5SvRjXSccQTGjawsopVNfYE49l8dIIJOaJ_c/s1600/2014-04-03_18.40.39%5B1%5D.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bending</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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On internet there are some very nice examples of people making bending jigs for travelers, <a href="http://www.smalltridesign.com/Trimaran-Articles/Construction-tips/track_bending.html">this one</a> is my favourite. But sometimes it's better to do it the easy way.... I just guesstimated the required radius (taking into account some springback) and used a band-saw and a piece of timber to make a 'mold'.<br />
Some heavy clamps and......<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">even more bending</td></tr>
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.... it turned out my guess of the springback was too conservative, so I just used some extra pieces of wood at the end of the traveler to increase the radius of the bend some more. </div>
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End result:</div>
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And on the boat: </div>
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Succes! This slight bend of the traveler made a big difference: jibsheet travels without any problems from one end to the other, every time. <br />
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Next post will be about a new tiller (+ ideas about remote control outboard)Mennohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14171061735762814136noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3848407917773278640.post-20750105905675058082013-06-18T01:46:00.001-07:002013-06-19T01:18:52.549-07:00Some work on the rig: new shroud-anchors, halyard re-installed and furlerMy side shrouds were anchored in the mast with 2 6mm dyneema loops (basically soft shackles) with stopper knots. After reading some reports of test of the breaking strength of soft shackles on this very nice<a href="http://l-36.com/"> site</a>, I decided to redo the loops. Seems diamond knots have way bigger impact on breaking strength than we thought.<br />
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This time we used a new type dyneema (DM20), in europe it's used to make a new product called dynastay, a very stiff and compact 12 strand type dyneema line, with nearly no creep. Probably a bit like dyna dux, but I couldn't source dux in the Netherlands.<br />
Breaking load is 5200 kg (!!!) for 6 mm rope, more than enough because breaking load of the shrouds should be 4200 kg as per plans.<br />
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Quality of pictures is not so good lately, I'll have to dig out my old camera as the phone camera is not really up to the task.<br />
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With the mast down I also had to reinsert a halyard. After a lot of failed attempts with the tool to guide electrical wire (sorry, don't know english word) my brother thought of possibly the best way to guide the line I have ever seen: just tape some of the sail battens of the mainsail together and stick them into the mast. Within a few minutes the halyard was set again.<br />
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To replace some longe stainless steel strips which were used to attach my furler-drum to the forestay-rack, we made a dyneema loop - partly covered with some flexible pvc hose. This loop can withstand enought torque to keep the furler pointing in the right direction. The loose ends were of course removed, tapered and stitched later on....<br />
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With the close up picture the wear on the finish of the boat realy shows. My plan is to repair/repaint all the visible exterior of the boat this winter.<br />
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Next posts will be on sails. I'm eagerly awaiting a new jib (self tacking, made by de vries-UK) and a new mainsail (made by Doyle in New Zealand).<br />
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<br />Mennohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14171061735762814136noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3848407917773278640.post-43365948790196448592013-06-12T00:50:00.002-07:002020-04-30T03:43:36.040-07:00tinkering (2)As with my earlier furlers, I started to machine a cheap aluminium pulley on my lathe. I've altered the lathe a bit to be able to turn bigger workpieces, so I could make a bigger size furling drum (this one is about 10 cm diameter). Later on I drilled a lot of holes in the drum. Not only to make it lighter, but also to give the line in the drum a bit more bite. This is done by drilling holes half way in the part of the drum where the v-belt runs (the biggest holes, as can be seen in some pictures below).<br />
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The drum 'sits' on the top of the upper part of the swivel on a small edge. Better to show it, else nobody will understand.....<br />
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I wasted a lot of time trying to figure out the best way to feed the furling line to the drum and to retain the furling line. Tried to use dyneemaa rope, shockcord, aluminium rod, etc. to retain the line round the drum and a bored block of HMPE (UHWM) - just cutting board - to feed the line. In the end it turned out nothing worked nearly as good as my earlier solution: using a small stainless eye to feed the line in and out, and a retaining drum machined out of HMPE.<br />
First prototype laid out with the three componenents:<br />
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I personally like this new design because the part which takes the big loads (the swivel) is totally independent from the parts of the furler that only need to do some low-load furling action. Even if the furling-parts fail, nothing bad will happen.<br />
For a comparison: a picure of one of my earlier furler attempts and my new attempt. I believe the new one has the better looks.<br />
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And finally a small clip. Grip on the line is excellent when pulling, and even after pulling the line hard into the drum it releases with ease when the drum is spun on its own.<br />
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That's it for now. Next thing to do is to make a nice link to attach the furler to the rack in the bow of my boat. Till now I've used some stainless steel strips to link the furler to the rack, but my plan is to replace this by a sort of loop made of anti torsion rope. To be continued...<br />
<br />Mennohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14171061735762814136noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3848407917773278640.post-71688385153934588312013-06-10T14:52:00.003-07:002013-06-10T15:00:35.309-07:00Tinkering - new diy furlerWith all the terrible weather in northern europe this season (no sign of global warming here lately...) and hence hardly any sailing till now, I have time to spare to do some tinkering.<br />
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When my brother mentioned my diy 20 dollar furler has a distinctive <a href="http://prao.guillard.free.fr/index2.htm">'Des Jour Meilleurs'</a> look, I just knew I had to make myself a little more expensive looking furler. Actually this is not true, I really admire the way that vessel is built (check out the 'retailed (what???) description' on the site), I was just craving to start a small project to keep me busy.<br />
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Anyway, as always when building I try to avoid 'marine' materials, as they tend to be way overpriced just because they are marketed for marine = $$$. Found myself some climbing/arboring swivels, clearly well made out of proper grade anodized aluminium, a big 316 stainless steel rod and sealed axial bearings. Rated breaking load is about 2.500 kg, and being climbing equipment I guess this is a very conservative rating. All swivels are priced in or a little above the 50 dollar range. Although it is probably possible to make a swivel for less money, the ease of just buying, the looks and the certainty the swivel is working within rated strength is in my opinion well worth the price.<br />
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The small ones are very light and will be my top swivels, the big one will be the backbone of my new diy endless line furler. Although the big one is made in germany, it's colourful and cheery. <br />
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More to come.....<br />
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<br />Mennohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14171061735762814136noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3848407917773278640.post-60481770413498366992013-05-21T10:05:00.003-07:002013-05-21T10:05:45.948-07:00Finally building something again - selftacking jibA self-tacking jib has been on my wishlist for a long time.<br />
I'll rig it with a simple straight, one meter wide, track (lewmar size 0).<br />
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Step one: a mold for two jibtrack steps. I used the 1:1 plansheets to figure out some angles for the base of the steps.<br />
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Step 2: laminating some leftover carbon unidirectional + biax. I almost forgot how easy it is to make your own parts with a bit of epoxy, glass, packing tape and a simple mold.<br />
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Step 3: cleaning up after curing. For cutting glass (with both jigsaw and 'multimaster' tool) I always use blades with an abrasive edge which are sold for cutting tiles. Works perfectly and the blades last forever.<br />
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Looking the part....</div>
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End result: track just in front of mast. The track is stiff and strong enough to be supported by the two ends only. All loads will only be on both ends anyway (jibsheet will always be end left or end right).<br />
I ordered two ball bearing-cars and some ball bearing bloks to get a smooth ride of the jib, they're due in about two weeks.<br />
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My 20 dollar-diy continuous line furler is still working without any flaws. I'd like to get the furler a bit lower. That will probably mean I will have to build (or buy...$$$$$$$) another one with a tang which fits the slotted rack on the bullnose of the boat.<br />
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Mennohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14171061735762814136noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3848407917773278640.post-80750957338692135602011-08-13T01:34:00.000-07:002011-08-13T02:32:41.370-07:00Update (2): trampoline rail braces<div>The original braces under the trampoline rail on the float <a href="http://f22bymenno.blogspot.com/2009/07/test-sail-week.html">almost immediately broke after starting to use the boat</a>. It's probably due to a fault by me building them, although I can't really imagine what I did wrong. Anyway, the rail worked without the braces but I got tired of the floppy feel while walking on the trampoline, so I put five sturdy braces (pvc foam wrapped in 600 gr glass) under the rail. It's not executed very well (had to work whith the boat folded on te trailer) but for now it's ok. Rail feels much more sturdy. Problem is the attachment of the rail on the float decks is loaded the wrong way because of the rigid braces - not only in sheer because of the trampoline pulling but also 'peel' - and they are developing some cracks round the tapes which hold them on te deck. I'm still planning to repaint/refair the floats to get rid of the damage caused on the first sail of the boat, and then I will make a better and permanent solution.</div><div>
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<br />Mennohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14171061735762814136noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3848407917773278640.post-12608428844980191282011-08-07T09:28:00.000-07:002011-08-07T13:21:21.922-07:00Update (1) - retaining of rudder cassette spacer<div>After launching the boat I stopped updating the blog. After two full seasons of sailing there are some things to mention that might be helpful or interesting for other F22 builders....</div><br /><div>So starting with something small: the spacer in my rudder cassette is bolted with 6 mm nylon threaded rod with normal ss nuts. This might seem a bit weak solution, but till now it hasn't failed. The good thing is that in the event of the rudder breaking out, there will be no or not much damage to the cassette. I had the rudder breaking out once while motoring about 6 knots and running into probably some mud, and the nylon 'bolts' holding the spacer at the back of the cassette were easily cut by the cassette, freeing the rudder.<br /></div><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrB1w61ltQexlRgUcEPUFjCinUeHaMLSufbXqDBhOCTWVIhuQH5yJ_acZAZRtZT7ZeKMPBr2ix-YG-mQJM5NK2hguK3c3NSjTdZGJZW20cIK7ekDxG2Duq2Y0Xw9WtaA-PJGTFUUy07cU/s1600/CIMG1290.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 300px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5638156459206195410" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrB1w61ltQexlRgUcEPUFjCinUeHaMLSufbXqDBhOCTWVIhuQH5yJ_acZAZRtZT7ZeKMPBr2ix-YG-mQJM5NK2hguK3c3NSjTdZGJZW20cIK7ekDxG2Duq2Y0Xw9WtaA-PJGTFUUy07cU/s400/CIMG1290.JPG" /></a>One thing I learned from this occasion: make a small retaining line for the spacer (the rudder is also tied to the boat with a piece of rope, by the way) to make sure you don't lose the spacer when the rudder breaks out, like the example above. I could easily collect the spacer when I lost it (it floats - it's made of cutting board which is apparently lighter then water) because I lost it in calm circumstances, but it's probably not possible to collect it with a lot of wind and waves. With the rudder and the spacer retained - and 2 or 4 spare 6mm bolts - it should be no more than a few minutes work to get the rudder up and running again.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div></div></div>Mennohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14171061735762814136noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3848407917773278640.post-7710477414255473632010-06-29T23:38:00.000-07:002010-07-01T00:22:58.545-07:00Pulpit, furler, tiller-tamerYes, this is yet another go at the diy furler: mk3. The all plastic cage on my furler mk2 didn't work as well as my furler mk1, because the furling line had a tendency to slip on the drum. Feeding the line in and out via one big eye works much better (actually it works perfect). For the rest the fuler is the same as my Mk2. From this weekend on I'll be sailing with my family for hopefully about three weeks, after that I can probably tell if this furler works in all conditions or not.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzuQ6xzpSYhSOOT12ZCpIhE7c-1n_Y6XB6N9JUe2RbPsYG9LfEUviybAKOD6XoI-jEvCimldmq46Txm6keSRf9i9nD-MPy-oFiOH-Ytw4K2SbSW5exSq41CgFgw78PWUMfyxR_TQ1EDPE/s1600/CIMG1252.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5488456854037408642" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzuQ6xzpSYhSOOT12ZCpIhE7c-1n_Y6XB6N9JUe2RbPsYG9LfEUviybAKOD6XoI-jEvCimldmq46Txm6keSRf9i9nD-MPy-oFiOH-Ytw4K2SbSW5exSq41CgFgw78PWUMfyxR_TQ1EDPE/s400/CIMG1252.JPG" border="0" /></a>From a distance the boat still looks quite good, in my humble opinion. Here we are anchored in knee-deep water. <div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6a2NvisgdlYB9s1TmkUHhCX5nzj71EENKj1OIA9Cx5PgNOBetU07KuCGCkIuKT60M1qrbl4OjpP2ASOO6SOZKti1Zcb-qgsqNP9pd8ve1-KYZbeqUL5As-al4hpAhsGgN0ALDHosQXTg/s1600/CIMG1254.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5488456847422858514" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6a2NvisgdlYB9s1TmkUHhCX5nzj71EENKj1OIA9Cx5PgNOBetU07KuCGCkIuKT60M1qrbl4OjpP2ASOO6SOZKti1Zcb-qgsqNP9pd8ve1-KYZbeqUL5As-al4hpAhsGgN0ALDHosQXTg/s400/CIMG1254.JPG" border="0" /></a> Below my 'tiller tamer'. Simply release the shockcord from the camcleat to release the tamer. With the tamer tensioned, there is enough friction to keep the tiller in one position.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwSLq0YwUIk28PjhDD71_obE2GywhWwFqdSShtEqCU3LEdMy3dCgChEwPIRgvK8GBD3HXzkfDBqGIQIcGsouyrU41twM0BaRAaD_BoKyNqfppLqxwd7ZRz70y1Ln_ppmSTMcPasyMINa0/s1600/CIMG1261.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5488456840103341682" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwSLq0YwUIk28PjhDD71_obE2GywhWwFqdSShtEqCU3LEdMy3dCgChEwPIRgvK8GBD3HXzkfDBqGIQIcGsouyrU41twM0BaRAaD_BoKyNqfppLqxwd7ZRz70y1Ln_ppmSTMcPasyMINa0/s400/CIMG1261.JPG" border="0" /></a> I originally planned to put bownets on my boat but after having a good look decided it's probably not worth the effort, as the nets will be very small. </div><div>One thing I however DO recommend to install is a pulpit. Originally I thought a pulpit would just be for show, but after having been forced to go to the foredeck a few times with a bit of wind and waves to sort out the jib I know better. It's very uncomfortable and (in my opinion even) dangerous working on the tiny foredeck without anything to hold on to.<br /></div><div>I thought making the pulpit myself would be a nice opportunity to learn something about working with metal tubes and a good excuse to finally buy my own MIG welder. I bought a 200A inverter MIG welder. It's about the max I can run on domestic power (even had to put heavier fuses in the fusebox, as it would blow the normal fuses by just turning the welder on).<br /></div><div></div><div></div><div>Step (1): make a mdf mold to make the big bend at the front of the pulpit (here I'm using two 18 mm pieces of MDF). </div><div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiMGtzyjedz263YEHBZSaxEP-9gsBHm7yomLsSYEV6ElpZHQ-hcvG8ycvgRtmUJINymSam2AVwPIZA1eR7s8djkoVyFKO6jbkv1ZXnYVXxCwciT-TnZBZ5p33IwhsahyphenhyphentbBMkzl4hF82k/s1600/CIMG1262.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5488456824275706034" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiMGtzyjedz263YEHBZSaxEP-9gsBHm7yomLsSYEV6ElpZHQ-hcvG8ycvgRtmUJINymSam2AVwPIZA1eR7s8djkoVyFKO6jbkv1ZXnYVXxCwciT-TnZBZ5p33IwhsahyphenhyphentbBMkzl4hF82k/s400/CIMG1262.JPG" border="0" /></a> Step (2): probably not necessary: make recess in the two halves of the mold with a router, after that I glued/screwd the halves on top of eachother.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyBgLG53N2-j4rwmq8rNW2PNjMZD5b29y4dDIzpvAMvBh-TNGRrbl2hSrUhO4q3ZHaUc0ArE31If-mKD0wEN9sepYkxFtZ6R9r3KCpM33ZN2JmyhmFYp-BLPv864zyfdF22nfJueMDGj8/s1600/CIMG1263.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5488456815496827714" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyBgLG53N2-j4rwmq8rNW2PNjMZD5b29y4dDIzpvAMvBh-TNGRrbl2hSrUhO4q3ZHaUc0ArE31If-mKD0wEN9sepYkxFtZ6R9r3KCpM33ZN2JmyhmFYp-BLPv864zyfdF22nfJueMDGj8/s400/CIMG1263.JPG" border="0" /></a> Step 3: bend by hand. This bend was around a mold with the radius the bend should have in the end. Not a good idea, as the tube has a lot of 'spring back'.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-e7NSrtYbZhw7GYDMzgWuPEuyQc3Bilni72YzzRzFjEJsytOA7mYeCMVVyAkfxkBbvbWAYIny9xxIfAq_PHNaBQz46ehWwWWl9FIKAAm8PLV99I9rSWPniUxUiZgjMl2gXt9jmdx54RU/s1600/CIMG1269.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5488455298000517122" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-e7NSrtYbZhw7GYDMzgWuPEuyQc3Bilni72YzzRzFjEJsytOA7mYeCMVVyAkfxkBbvbWAYIny9xxIfAq_PHNaBQz46ehWwWWl9FIKAAm8PLV99I9rSWPniUxUiZgjMl2gXt9jmdx54RU/s400/CIMG1269.JPG" border="0" /></a> So..... I made a mold with a smaller radius, and did the final bending on that. On the first try I was not careful enough and extended the bend too much. Couldn't rectify that and had to start all over again with a new tube. With the below 'design' for bending it's however easy to carefully bend bit by bit - bend - check - bend - check etc. This worked well, but to bend like this (with a lever) it's necessary to first make a part of the bend by hand on a lager mold (as above) as it's only suitable to do the finishing bending.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6IyiWbJmRifsuAUmND-QSqY4VBeaCybISek-IUFOXmnUeSatdAXp5bpoTC8erSpkDuTqAYZxLYu8Xg3oau59qQDAc9L7SjbqIpW5jUWPNZsmGJ5EpRRvVUa_hhO4Ic1mpzdu7H-HvEe0/s1600/CIMG1270.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5488455290828885298" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6IyiWbJmRifsuAUmND-QSqY4VBeaCybISek-IUFOXmnUeSatdAXp5bpoTC8erSpkDuTqAYZxLYu8Xg3oau59qQDAc9L7SjbqIpW5jUWPNZsmGJ5EpRRvVUa_hhO4Ic1mpzdu7H-HvEe0/s400/CIMG1270.JPG" border="0" /></a>Maybe it's because I'm not a metalworker, but the dwawings of the pulpit weren't very helpful to me. In the end it was easiest to just set the pulpit up with some scrap wood and some lines on the floor and measure & cut & grind till all the pieces more ore less fitted the drawings.<br />For the tube notching I found this <a href="http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=456800">tip </a>helpful.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-25GFax1D6bW93CyexxVSGPunjq34q9keLQ_SKBnquxtWqOpY9K5EhZG0xDSwx6JfGm0cIFHtz84aj4GDFSyQ0d__REgnUsuodt75y3jKsj21crVySXLSXgaPnX4DSgBHGzDgXcigIWA/s1600/CIMG1272.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5488455282688502706" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-25GFax1D6bW93CyexxVSGPunjq34q9keLQ_SKBnquxtWqOpY9K5EhZG0xDSwx6JfGm0cIFHtz84aj4GDFSyQ0d__REgnUsuodt75y3jKsj21crVySXLSXgaPnX4DSgBHGzDgXcigIWA/s400/CIMG1272.JPG" border="0" /></a>Because I had to do a lot of tube-cutting I had a good excuse to buy yet another tool: an <a href="http://www.evolutionpowertools.co.uk/euro/evolution_rage3-s.html">Evolution Rage 3S </a>mitre saw, which is supposed to be able to saw metal, wood and plastic with one blade. That sounded just perfect for me - one machine fits all. Big mistake. This machine itself is pretty lousy build but the worst part is the blades. They wear down very fast. I ruined one blade half way building the pulpit, and the other is already starting to get blunt. I know stainless steel is a pain to saw, but a few cuts in thin walled pipe shouldn't be too much to ask, now should it? In short: I should have known it sounded too good to be true and should have just bought some extra metal-blades for my table saw.<br /></div><div>Welding the tube: put all settings of the welder as low as possible, and just spot weld round (starting with 4 welds: top, bottom, sides). This seems to be the only way to weld the thin walled tube without burning through.</div><div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYzNJZg_P5AA0NUQtIUsQ8kLsPJ8A8lCqjqp_zxObOm0UMUTUWM5BDZqUmTs8OzoRLZFwi9806glcbEKdPfnMLotVjQ_RMV2cvO4fIDKO6pT4w-MUn8Tsz0YBW9gJTjJIG3Mk9hUFRBOU/s1600/CIMG1276.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5488455278271777378" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYzNJZg_P5AA0NUQtIUsQ8kLsPJ8A8lCqjqp_zxObOm0UMUTUWM5BDZqUmTs8OzoRLZFwi9806glcbEKdPfnMLotVjQ_RMV2cvO4fIDKO6pT4w-MUn8Tsz0YBW9gJTjJIG3Mk9hUFRBOU/s400/CIMG1276.JPG" border="0" /></a>Below end result, with welds roughly ground. Total cost material: 35 euro for 4 meter tubing (type 304, 20 mm diameter, 1,5 mm wall) and 10 euro for the ss plate to cut the baseplates from.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidRW5EQpslQutGDSd7qzxHO_L-RTvtvKgUQ-JCzExVVt9VGXyUdFgZfQR1Ce_E4x8vOjqmSBjmDYK9Fsx2BjIyiKW5xZiVQ4dAcwF_p995qLiFD51xpzcl2H9JdjYuys0KgoOde5ZZoFg/s1600/CIMG1280.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5488455274367697890" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidRW5EQpslQutGDSd7qzxHO_L-RTvtvKgUQ-JCzExVVt9VGXyUdFgZfQR1Ce_E4x8vOjqmSBjmDYK9Fsx2BjIyiKW5xZiVQ4dAcwF_p995qLiFD51xpzcl2H9JdjYuys0KgoOde5ZZoFg/s400/CIMG1280.JPG" border="0" /></a> Ian Farrier recommends to first test-fit the pulpit before welding. That's not a bad idea. I first welded the frame of the pulpit, and after that test-fitted on the boat. It didn't fit perfect, and I had to make some adjustments before welding the aft base plates. The front base plates should be just in front of the front bulkhead, but in my case this didn't work out. I managed to drill two of the four holes of those baseplates IN the front bulkhead, aaaaargh. I'm not going to correct this: I will just fill those holes with epoxy and tap a thread into the epoxy.<br /><div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Mennohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14171061735762814136noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3848407917773278640.post-47930309157267714442010-05-10T11:12:00.000-07:002010-05-10T12:26:47.829-07:00diy furler mk2The 50-miles race I joined with my brother didn't go too well for us. Right at the start the pin at bottom of my furler broke (I already had my doubts it would be strong enough, see earlier post). After sorting out the mess and hoisting the jib flying, we made good progress, overtaking a lot of monohulls. But halfway the race the attachment of the main halyard on the mainsail broke (what a shame, it was still on my to do list, but I thought it would hold as it had done so last few sails) and we left the race and sailed back using the jib only.<br /><br />So it was no succes, but at least it was a good test for things to improve on the boat. Lesson learned: don't underestimate the forces on the rig, they are quite big even for such a small boat.<br /><br />For other multihulls the race was a big succes. Against over 100 boats, line honours were taken by sorry alice (F31), second was Tom Siemerink with <a href="http://www.f32.nl/">F32 Tresoor</a>, third was Arno Molenaar with F31 <a href="http://www.heemstede.demon.nl/thrillseeker/home1.html">Thrill Seeker</a><span style="WIDOWS: 2; TEXT-TRANSFORM: none; TEXT-INDENT: 0px; BORDER-COLLAPSE: separate; FONT: small arial, sans-serif; WHITE-SPACE: normal; ORPHANS: 2; LETTER-SPACING: normal; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0); WORD-SPACING: 0px" class="Apple-style-span"><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 16px; COLOR: rgb(34,136,34)" class="Apple-style-span"><b>. </b></span></span>Fourth place was for the first monohull, a brand new 11,5 meter long carbon monohull skippered by withbread and Volvo Ocean Race skipper Roy Heiner. 5th place was for a dragonfly 970 and 7th place for a corsair 28.<br /><br />After the failure of the first roller, I was ready to give up and to spend a few hundred euros on a commercial furler, but my brother convinced me it's good fun to try to build a proper working roller for a fraction of the cost. So I gave it another try. Below is the result. This time I made a cage for the furling drum enclosing the whole drum. Unlike with furler Mk1 it's not possible to feed a continuous line, but who cares? The furling line will just stay on the roller.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRzN4bij0VGyEC6PEENRVIGi4lZ_UMqHPPgLniNDg_Z5zJU7Pw7l6dsjp0ScaKwB1pSmzdbl2aJC9-PYiEcGDZ5Gw_v_CIQ9fbXFAXlG9OYw4H5sftxRPvgUlJRlvQYD84zmx9wvOm8nQ/s1600/CIMG1216.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 300px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5469714911415029666" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRzN4bij0VGyEC6PEENRVIGi4lZ_UMqHPPgLniNDg_Z5zJU7Pw7l6dsjp0ScaKwB1pSmzdbl2aJC9-PYiEcGDZ5Gw_v_CIQ9fbXFAXlG9OYw4H5sftxRPvgUlJRlvQYD84zmx9wvOm8nQ/s400/CIMG1216.JPG" /></a>The roller MK1 had two big flaws.First the attachment points were not strong (enough). Beside that, the cage of the drum of the roller wasn't fixed in place. I mistakenly thought that made sense, but the result was the roller tended to roll instead of the sail. I fixed the cage by drilling through the main bolt and putting a pin into the hole.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3iNNHckQerjTkBmLlN3clK7MJrq4DqXb3_XaI2BSmE50uKdrbXiD0zNZdzQKsG1ic_NDxa7gJpKNZdt5QbygiRt-2EMq4k-GRMC2oIdBeWZlznYmcR7LbqDkv5qGzwsB4Jrq7xVZg77g/s1600/CIMG1214.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 300px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5469707266476682722" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3iNNHckQerjTkBmLlN3clK7MJrq4DqXb3_XaI2BSmE50uKdrbXiD0zNZdzQKsG1ic_NDxa7gJpKNZdt5QbygiRt-2EMq4k-GRMC2oIdBeWZlznYmcR7LbqDkv5qGzwsB4Jrq7xVZg77g/s400/CIMG1214.JPG" /></a>The pin fits into a slot, cut in the cage, and locks it in place.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimAAetWqzV-RfC8mWBRwyrTomocIPHY_BTuTW5ouLNEmqrsKmRPMfBW5RSsgKy-qZrXNw28WAkxN1hOv5wcasqtTYV0XNiWb34vulWHcm4oOkgs2VoTQcU3_EumTYqB1uztdVfB-lFecA/s1600/CIMG1215.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 300px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5469720159191477314" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimAAetWqzV-RfC8mWBRwyrTomocIPHY_BTuTW5ouLNEmqrsKmRPMfBW5RSsgKy-qZrXNw28WAkxN1hOv5wcasqtTYV0XNiWb34vulWHcm4oOkgs2VoTQcU3_EumTYqB1uztdVfB-lFecA/s400/CIMG1215.JPG" /></a>The attachment on top of the fuler is now made by a bent m6 (6mm) threaded rod, locked in place by two nyloc nuts in recesses (see photo below and above).<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghkAHx-dOtUQx4jr3LKj-6n84rookkPEq6lMyS5W6YNZiqhPHsXeOaygVaMduCeeVpBz63QDRwjbgOqXlu_9K2pdkkZpBxpsT8T2OH-D6wAdjGeYhecflWS1WpgNuwlqyFk4o_fYt3WVI/s1600/CIMG1217.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 300px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5469707247877488882" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghkAHx-dOtUQx4jr3LKj-6n84rookkPEq6lMyS5W6YNZiqhPHsXeOaygVaMduCeeVpBz63QDRwjbgOqXlu_9K2pdkkZpBxpsT8T2OH-D6wAdjGeYhecflWS1WpgNuwlqyFk4o_fYt3WVI/s400/CIMG1217.JPG" /></a>To fix the eye of the roller to the central bolt I made two threaded holes to put in short bolts. They are not bolted through (because that would weaken the bolt too much and it would snap again). The two stainless steel strips attach to the bow web pin, and will make sure the roller (+cage) can't twist.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK-b-GE__3OGJyrokRJIRLovhoNngK92OtmCODCM94pu5jGaX1VboZFN1LAMIqzAr-JlgcgJvqAxUIu7pVv2TPPSu-lv5pMF9SLaRIdJR2Dgf-fw6urqzG2JQgfpeZ5ttFupQ4MRUdh0c/s1600/CIMG1218.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 300px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5469707241482533762" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK-b-GE__3OGJyrokRJIRLovhoNngK92OtmCODCM94pu5jGaX1VboZFN1LAMIqzAr-JlgcgJvqAxUIu7pVv2TPPSu-lv5pMF9SLaRIdJR2Dgf-fw6urqzG2JQgfpeZ5ttFupQ4MRUdh0c/s400/CIMG1218.JPG" /></a>Mennohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14171061735762814136noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3848407917773278640.post-16433782678282293862010-04-26T11:57:00.000-07:002010-04-27T01:55:53.004-07:00Still some things to post aboutWith the start of the new sailing season, I thought it was time to invest some money into proper equipment. Like these two high end fenders (thank you, kids). I'm not much of a salty dog armchair-sailor so these can remind me which is port (green) and starboard (red).<br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5464528215424905250" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnBK2thWpqCXsx7WLJKSN4P_BMlowZbfhyphenhyphen2Hzo7YI4iUljiJWrs6xDWcUNWu76ZqZXZEaJ072cOoXk5LtkidSp6-4y30NjOnY3i2WFySSvagsMtUQMPAuMLekeUIp783elpoqJ3uR7sd0/s400/CIMG1190.JPG" border="0" />Also, I made a ring of tube (held in place with a bolted eyelet) on the end of my boat hook to be able to dock with a bit more ease (provided there is a pole on the dockside to grab with the ring).<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbMzqjT74yQUC4vM4ha_lUFoN3wmXu9aSsECzumDKSJY-rEpwrBOMRm205nU3Y63w3T2Fj4sBmm0MoUoIYRhbSZwzjo2zuQ6xNoPSpoCFnA7f4CL0rGKMH814t0fL078evCxlhg9bRxe4/s1600/CIMG1191.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5464528201929528818" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbMzqjT74yQUC4vM4ha_lUFoN3wmXu9aSsECzumDKSJY-rEpwrBOMRm205nU3Y63w3T2Fj4sBmm0MoUoIYRhbSZwzjo2zuQ6xNoPSpoCFnA7f4CL0rGKMH814t0fL078evCxlhg9bRxe4/s400/CIMG1191.JPG" border="0" /></a> Below is one of my high end fenders. I can use the loop of rope to drag it to the bow of the float. When not in use I can flip the fender to the inside side of the float. Having a fender at the bow of the boat is the only way to safely dock the boat moving forward.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiulkU9UndIlUhpQShWWnByCIM9JKEzVQJ_fEIxRRvTPRNz_dlDuhfv0ovvqjijlKpnGfPP__Azgvewx4JDCxvJ87b17K4DjGU5mU5CiRs-Ahx7M-VK4MMzxf1jd3kT7bb4kjnlpq73U4g/s1600/CIMG1202.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5464528194795382002" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiulkU9UndIlUhpQShWWnByCIM9JKEzVQJ_fEIxRRvTPRNz_dlDuhfv0ovvqjijlKpnGfPP__Azgvewx4JDCxvJ87b17K4DjGU5mU5CiRs-Ahx7M-VK4MMzxf1jd3kT7bb4kjnlpq73U4g/s400/CIMG1202.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />I also made an extra support for the mast. The hole in the support (see first picture of this post) is to put the maststep-ball into, and locks the support in place. The black strap is double sided velcro. Very handy for tying ropes to the mast. You can buy it at marine stores for $$$$$ but you can also buy it at AV-companies for normal prices (about 2 dollars per meter).<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYxDY1QtYvLgma9IZnZ9qnXNL0eC8UNS6HxiWwXnlm3jaZePtFoU80PhgzSRYkjJWVha2j0k0_q3s6175li6S390l2EdS80wSn19e3nU52Z5uGa1vnl9P4uu2Rc4VINkkpGHC45F-NcOw/s1600/CIMG1204.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5464528186419503954" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYxDY1QtYvLgma9IZnZ9qnXNL0eC8UNS6HxiWwXnlm3jaZePtFoU80PhgzSRYkjJWVha2j0k0_q3s6175li6S390l2EdS80wSn19e3nU52Z5uGa1vnl9P4uu2Rc4VINkkpGHC45F-NcOw/s400/CIMG1204.JPG" border="0" /></a>I didn't bother to put a masthead on my mast - can't see the benefit. With a bare mastend it's easy to fix the (in europe) compulsery marking sign for 'long cargo'. The sign is held in place with a piece of 6 mm rod sticking through the mast and secured by two rings.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh6C2w_RSlFnaRe3y4WXwrcttXvADVUOS4Cnw6Hk5_4e-SSUNxmzy9UYjDWgGXofFy9ZtBPG7EjllErF_Fydl3aIwMl6Zzi-b_WGFkSdhVTKTvt4f7tUmiZ46H3j5Cg48RFSnnfXrZ_cM/s1600/CIMG1208.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5464528174647008610" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh6C2w_RSlFnaRe3y4WXwrcttXvADVUOS4Cnw6Hk5_4e-SSUNxmzy9UYjDWgGXofFy9ZtBPG7EjllErF_Fydl3aIwMl6Zzi-b_WGFkSdhVTKTvt4f7tUmiZ46H3j5Cg48RFSnnfXrZ_cM/s400/CIMG1208.JPG" border="0" /></a>In the category things breaking: with one float unfolded the pads on the beams sometimes bind/jam a bit. I ground the edges of the pads already, but not enough. When I stamped on the beampad to put it in place, the epoxy glue snapped. Not sure if this happened because the surface wasn't prepared well enough before gluing, or because the epoxy is not flexible enough to handle this kind of peak pulling forces. I will clean and sand the gluing area, and then glue the pad again, using pu-kit-glue. This glue is superstrong but also a bit more flexible than epoxy and won't snap as easily.<br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5464687375776720498" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: pointer; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaZZhu7gqT4KYvKFwFeI09kY_YyAJFzEqjFgA54R58bP3fJCcFkNCNaY3v-ZBhWVL-Ev3RwvOSv1aFnczDqXwWyb6c5QQh2k3F-H2bwN8AshRAu_K6wosS6eu5rT5i1p9Ie4Glu84-FsM/s400/CIMG1211.JPG" border="0" /></div><br /><div>We tested the diy roller furler (see earlier post), it seems to work ok. Watch for yourself.<br /><div></div></div></div></div></div><br /><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dwEAlqaklZ1KrnhY24bmBzytdavxfnnUXCWM0vGrvWwa0jBJ8F8TTDOx7O5-cFkhN-ey1yFE_nArAHk_kCtig' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe><br /><br /><br />This saturday me and my brother will join a 50-miles doublehanded sailrace. Just for fun. I only have the main and jib, and no lightwind sails so we will probably be smoked by at least the other 8 multihulls which will be in the race.Mennohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14171061735762814136noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3848407917773278640.post-57430042318315465522010-01-31T11:24:00.000-08:002010-02-07T13:15:36.718-08:00diy endless line furler (25 - 30 dollar)For some time I have been toying with the idea to make a endless-line furler from standard automotive parts. Below is my fist try. It's made of an aluminium pulley (10 euro = 14 dollar), a standard skf double row ball bearing - type 3200 if I remember correctly - (10 euro), some stainless steel bolts and eyes and some plastic parts made of cutting board.<br /><br />Since I have a backup forestay I can take some risks: even if the furler will fail nothing serious will happen.<br /><br /><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9ISxIPgAn8kVJZXdLIUi67tZ3ZamVVjvbhTGesLxJeqieNxcU8XUNxvCy6BgLhMYcdeTbn1FGevHxnyfUtRx6GEcVYYcq42pI0lccMjZVm3g1dQtAf0f4VjfPlFB5nhRG05TiBmpsYkE/s1600-h/CIMG1153.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px; display: block; height: 300px;" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5432990213130623250" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9ISxIPgAn8kVJZXdLIUi67tZ3ZamVVjvbhTGesLxJeqieNxcU8XUNxvCy6BgLhMYcdeTbn1FGevHxnyfUtRx6GEcVYYcq42pI0lccMjZVm3g1dQtAf0f4VjfPlFB5nhRG05TiBmpsYkE/s400/CIMG1153.JPG" border="0" /></a> The drum is a standard aluminium v-belt pulley (type Z). This pulley is 8 cm diameter. I would rather have a bit bigger pulley, but couldn't because my lathe is not big enough to handle bigger diameters.<br />I drilled 8 holes through the pulley (hope the photo shows the idea) to make sure the furling line won't slip. Big succes - the line locks in the pulley beyond my expectations. </p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfuYKDhoZiZ7JhfSnDnHFs-Tw9-xK5oTvuLh6sFD3AlRyA7R55yMkxEDyJHXcxMCTVE4A0tnAtV6mw6oSA88pZ-wO0uQcn4I5GdlErhH4uWs02KjliJT0GHJikKMB-CwlEQFyqUMVEyVg/s1600-h/CIMG1139.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px; display: block; height: 300px;" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5432989769011626530" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfuYKDhoZiZ7JhfSnDnHFs-Tw9-xK5oTvuLh6sFD3AlRyA7R55yMkxEDyJHXcxMCTVE4A0tnAtV6mw6oSA88pZ-wO0uQcn4I5GdlErhH4uWs02KjliJT0GHJikKMB-CwlEQFyqUMVEyVg/s400/CIMG1139.JPG" border="0" /></a> Below the furler before assembly. From right to left: tang to mount the jib, cap made of cutting board to seal bearing, M10 bolt, bearing, the pulley with a recess for the bearing (made that with the lathe, of course), 3 rings to form a spacer, line-retaining drum made of cutting board (also on the lathe), piece of cutting board with an eye to feed the line, ring, nut with a hole and shakle.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1EgY_mFGbOzEYgT2S46JY9LH_ebIDLFsc3mMKwIwGAMclMSMzjSSCyey1zFHQdWAOklMvK1Nbu4ahcyexr2XfpV28xBlONdgnRSEeq9DwvSOUegdTx8TigOcmyumwBiGlS-zbpc56QMI/s1600-h/CIMG1130.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px; display: block; height: 300px;" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5432989764419209106" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1EgY_mFGbOzEYgT2S46JY9LH_ebIDLFsc3mMKwIwGAMclMSMzjSSCyey1zFHQdWAOklMvK1Nbu4ahcyexr2XfpV28xBlONdgnRSEeq9DwvSOUegdTx8TigOcmyumwBiGlS-zbpc56QMI/s400/CIMG1130.JPG" border="0" /></a> I put the bearing in a liberal amount of grease, and sealed the bearing-recess with a plastic cap. I think this should be watertight enough.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj6zcdxvD0vIge2KPIMLSYVI9I6fivTkyRK99cWhIlU4m0VwYdPsbQR06DSwpW2O4YDUOT52KtVAhq45bdy-PgUnC_H67AQaDsv1AD6igaqrL2x8D97obd80BZ-u0cHDRPSpz3nVj6F1M/s1600-h/CIMG1143.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px; display: block; height: 300px;" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5432989753842490402" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj6zcdxvD0vIge2KPIMLSYVI9I6fivTkyRK99cWhIlU4m0VwYdPsbQR06DSwpW2O4YDUOT52KtVAhq45bdy-PgUnC_H67AQaDsv1AD6igaqrL2x8D97obd80BZ-u0cHDRPSpz3nVj6F1M/s400/CIMG1143.JPG" border="0" /></a> The eye for feeding the furling line is held in place with a small recess in the furling drum (below).<br /></div><div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjlEihc9ecMimvduty21uiq7KwSo4W-BveKVU3f-f_KJy0Xj8vkpUgAhxczbf1TKfoLqoWj6a4SaO4mxxkg_6Ot_Yfl6bt5Vx-y7pQ7ay8N3TmuYq2Nr-h3Epqc-wKPoSNohQyDBRm6nY/s1600-h/CIMG1145.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px; display: block; height: 300px;" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5432989750649296594" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjlEihc9ecMimvduty21uiq7KwSo4W-BveKVU3f-f_KJy0Xj8vkpUgAhxczbf1TKfoLqoWj6a4SaO4mxxkg_6Ot_Yfl6bt5Vx-y7pQ7ay8N3TmuYq2Nr-h3Epqc-wKPoSNohQyDBRm6nY/s400/CIMG1145.JPG" border="0" /></a>Below a part I'm not too happy with yet: I used a 10 mm bolt to mount the shackle of the furler. Because it's threaded it's effecively less than 10 mm diameter, and with a 6,5 mm hole drilled through there is not much steel to hang on to. To fix this I drilled through the bolt and the nut, hoping this will be somewhat stronger. Added benefit: the nut is locked in place. I will probably replace this bolt by a unthreaded 10 mm rod.<br />Other part I'm not too happy with is the tang on the topside of the furler. there was not enough space above the bearing to just 'bolt through', soI fixed the tang with two short M6 bolts. Because the shape of the tang (wide, v-shaped), the forces on it will be quite high. I will probably think of another solution, but not before I have done some tests to see if the furler works.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzfKuKv08-k9JgxIyAYGWavJTgAH7W0FOOyD9_U8H3Nc2Nih87TbCRWszz8YNXzPaHiZnpVyFFctQMyGelARUnYUoPfRLVY8lvnEpaTmYq43WZ9fegASJ-LGVSmRtG6OPj889BtBfcHfk/s1600-h/CIMG1147.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px; display: block; height: 300px;" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5432989741302556274" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzfKuKv08-k9JgxIyAYGWavJTgAH7W0FOOyD9_U8H3Nc2Nih87TbCRWszz8YNXzPaHiZnpVyFFctQMyGelARUnYUoPfRLVY8lvnEpaTmYq43WZ9fegASJ-LGVSmRtG6OPj889BtBfcHfk/s400/CIMG1147.JPG" border="0" /></a>Movie to show the furler: as you can see it can turn and swiffle in all directions, and it's not much work to put the line on the drum.(PS the movie is often down, I'm sorry)<br /><div></div></div></div></div></div><br /><br /><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dyHXCXS2QZBHoY1MDJ6EIebXsW_mYShEt_CiiI-AEfJRpryZjbDxxBZXqN9VBuUBmsW074aOHSva-o2YHASYg' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe>Mennohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14171061735762814136noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3848407917773278640.post-75983869446649356412010-01-12T11:24:00.000-08:002010-01-12T12:03:40.610-08:00Working on detailsI added cleats in the center of the floats - will make tying up to a dock much easier.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7dv_JHHrq0ysNUnu6SLB_fQjMHczs1nj-C1dsQ1mjGYcuTqUlhVZktfJsu3PYOT4VM9HNNotiVWDYWGtSf5_APWAIXzUe20cBNhI4bWi3Doq0H1CoNCDGN-ftZNc_nbajA5QdfZqwLng/s1600-h/CIMG1094.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 300px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5425938774910217794" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7dv_JHHrq0ysNUnu6SLB_fQjMHczs1nj-C1dsQ1mjGYcuTqUlhVZktfJsu3PYOT4VM9HNNotiVWDYWGtSf5_APWAIXzUe20cBNhI4bWi3Doq0H1CoNCDGN-ftZNc_nbajA5QdfZqwLng/s400/CIMG1094.JPG" /></a>Detail of my new halyard-routing. The halyards exit the mast about two meters above the deck, and run through two blocks, then to an organiser and then to the cockpit.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRYIpEyrQk-wBv7TF2juEnKFM69eYrEr2mPFmqwjX4Xicu0RUq8r_EVq4xA6ggS8TXu7Kv6JaBcsNRIL2klSa-esuFXot_yAuCdFgxdTROzXMZGTCi7Y9N8j2EsONWK4PDtmaftdQaO7A/s1600-h/CIMG1088.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 300px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5425938771980331010" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRYIpEyrQk-wBv7TF2juEnKFM69eYrEr2mPFmqwjX4Xicu0RUq8r_EVq4xA6ggS8TXu7Kv6JaBcsNRIL2klSa-esuFXot_yAuCdFgxdTROzXMZGTCi7Y9N8j2EsONWK4PDtmaftdQaO7A/s400/CIMG1088.JPG" /></a>I found handling the jibsheets without winches too heavy with a bit more wind (even with 2:1 setup) and therefore added two winches. It's a shame in a way the boat gets cluttered more and more with stuff. My plan was to keep the rig very simple and to use as little as possible hardware.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4SPSbaUmaRjnAo9-lH0Xp8mqKBAAGavGjnhaBtvk7g_Pyx_z_SZ_V6sGuRxw1Zvj-W6WQgV7xq8-ormY4h138xcEQS-R1FrNU_fO8Kduy_bPW1bH-kReNGrpI72Rt_lVzFrV8TnTkSyM/s1600-h/CIMG1097.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 300px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5425938040594430178" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4SPSbaUmaRjnAo9-lH0Xp8mqKBAAGavGjnhaBtvk7g_Pyx_z_SZ_V6sGuRxw1Zvj-W6WQgV7xq8-ormY4h138xcEQS-R1FrNU_fO8Kduy_bPW1bH-kReNGrpI72Rt_lVzFrV8TnTkSyM/s400/CIMG1097.JPG" /></a> Something I should have known: make sure there is a hole in the anchor locker hatch to run lines or chain through to the locker. I had to make this hole off center because there is a tab in the center of the anchor well to support the hatch.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBRlzVaMtVuGoMcBtPE97HQOcSsMi0eFhP1v4tQW3OhxqYsArKPOK2Ifo7tO2hxuiid3Nig-Rl2KxXBl1CYrcl2BQx2Mz3MncXNO7hQbBxygZ8gQzDmbuK82xUlDIKcE75VFTAH3Xy3yg/s1600-h/CIMG1099.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 300px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5425938035260010898" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBRlzVaMtVuGoMcBtPE97HQOcSsMi0eFhP1v4tQW3OhxqYsArKPOK2Ifo7tO2hxuiid3Nig-Rl2KxXBl1CYrcl2BQx2Mz3MncXNO7hQbBxygZ8gQzDmbuK82xUlDIKcE75VFTAH3Xy3yg/s400/CIMG1099.JPG" /></a> I messed up most of the trampoline grommets because I didn't have the proper die set to fix the grommets, so I replaced them with a piece of webbing (sandwich webbing-trampoline-webbing).<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin2cdzHBbEI5GkZQVsHHEAp-ejSrOS7Kr7R4jfvIMY5fJbwOCnw29fQHT68kn352_J1z3dlhVs7BSFK1QQ7CgUW9gk9TR3ieCf6rjJhGJuiWnGsQsYsA5-4xtDgmcHuG3kCgqkoqaCE_w/s1600-h/CIMG1105.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 300px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5425938029267317234" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin2cdzHBbEI5GkZQVsHHEAp-ejSrOS7Kr7R4jfvIMY5fJbwOCnw29fQHT68kn352_J1z3dlhVs7BSFK1QQ7CgUW9gk9TR3ieCf6rjJhGJuiWnGsQsYsA5-4xtDgmcHuG3kCgqkoqaCE_w/s400/CIMG1105.JPG" /></a>Without the grommets the trampoline is not so 'bling' anymore, but I believe the webbing-loops will spread the loads much better thant the grommets. I didn't remove the grommets closest to the hull, because the lashings to those grommets have to be loosened every time you fold, and with the lashing throug a grommet that's easier than with a lashing through a webbing.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDevZGEivveobU2DkmDojoIlhK7N1WD1bKgyYk06wxRSTWUHSwlUXitRebKT6YbQZW_T7dmzaLpLG0V1kF59IbKhHuJCzgj7pQQp-PnTCWpKe9uNzx83Oxh79a4KP1OjURpDMpibav4tU/s1600-h/CIMG1107.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 300px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5425938022959069362" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDevZGEivveobU2DkmDojoIlhK7N1WD1bKgyYk06wxRSTWUHSwlUXitRebKT6YbQZW_T7dmzaLpLG0V1kF59IbKhHuJCzgj7pQQp-PnTCWpKe9uNzx83Oxh79a4KP1OjURpDMpibav4tU/s400/CIMG1107.JPG" /></a> Detail: the webbing runs through the holes of the former grommets. The 'eye' of the webbing will be on the lower side of the trampoline.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4CDm7epVsOGQpoZBg2rZK3bz5O7zKrTzV_RCBX5K39tS3nKMTICkNt3YC2-lmPk8-ufkMxVhnUQLcFAi11jN9SfqcxZUXEOg8EovvaWl6F1eydC1q8Ad84qb-PZ9mFa0wwZxJol0IQdI/s1600-h/CIMG1108.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 300px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5425938017781557586" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4CDm7epVsOGQpoZBg2rZK3bz5O7zKrTzV_RCBX5K39tS3nKMTICkNt3YC2-lmPk8-ufkMxVhnUQLcFAi11jN9SfqcxZUXEOg8EovvaWl6F1eydC1q8Ad84qb-PZ9mFa0wwZxJol0IQdI/s400/CIMG1108.JPG" /></a>Next project will be: making some sort of removable galley with a kerosene burner because next summer I will be sailing with my family for a few weeks and I want some cruising comforts by then. My plan is to make a sort of box which will stand on one half of one of the cabin-seats. Ideas are welcome.... </div></div></div></div></div></div>Mennohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14171061735762814136noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3848407917773278640.post-42261142888634461162009-12-16T10:58:00.000-08:002009-12-16T11:10:28.722-08:00Just a perfect dayIt is winter now in the Netherlands, and I've finally got some time to catch up updating the blog.<br />About three months ago it was nice weather, and I went sailing with my wife and kids for just a day. Some pictures to show this boat is a nice (albeit small) family-cruiser.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuntaZFdc7j2Dh1xtsolSF6hIq8Fl0waomPxQmFU3NOEMzWb-__rith7bl-w1d8ehpZ5kcL2zr2zyG81BqY-Q9QeH0MZE4-M7zpCO-v5UfM-cEXFZICa4_9XCLvuZ8kjVjDprJA_AUI18/s1600-h/CIMG1083.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuntaZFdc7j2Dh1xtsolSF6hIq8Fl0waomPxQmFU3NOEMzWb-__rith7bl-w1d8ehpZ5kcL2zr2zyG81BqY-Q9QeH0MZE4-M7zpCO-v5UfM-cEXFZICa4_9XCLvuZ8kjVjDprJA_AUI18/s400/CIMG1083.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5415912113788726162" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBY1SwGrnUJqw_9u4CsXLV5-A-J1Ov1Fe2XZ79MjSISmNQvK28JE7aN1CLUNiElabENlch_rmG0C-bFbMGVyC5KeuryA3vQ4kOuX2qmPxRseXkexwJEngQpyqJPbE9DzYcCKI3jmn2VoA/s1600-h/CIMG1087.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBY1SwGrnUJqw_9u4CsXLV5-A-J1Ov1Fe2XZ79MjSISmNQvK28JE7aN1CLUNiElabENlch_rmG0C-bFbMGVyC5KeuryA3vQ4kOuX2qmPxRseXkexwJEngQpyqJPbE9DzYcCKI3jmn2VoA/s400/CIMG1087.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5415912109248102786" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAxgrS0-_TkehUvm2egyAsnlNUW3GLSbdCKX0uUUKkUEi2HndNaWQzu8T0QqXTimYtlHtpOb76V4zhHj3cly7Sg36vwU5jduuhBbyUpqAB-wRLzb_X0SHNHRoxBcy53xWkcrPQHnSVGfI/s1600-h/CIMG1086.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAxgrS0-_TkehUvm2egyAsnlNUW3GLSbdCKX0uUUKkUEi2HndNaWQzu8T0QqXTimYtlHtpOb76V4zhHj3cly7Sg36vwU5jduuhBbyUpqAB-wRLzb_X0SHNHRoxBcy53xWkcrPQHnSVGfI/s400/CIMG1086.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5415912106928394434" border="0" /></a>Mennohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14171061735762814136noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3848407917773278640.post-84028088422620078812009-09-09T11:46:00.000-07:002009-12-16T11:16:15.340-08:00Some improvementsAfter the first sail with the boat I went on a vacation with my family (camping, nog boating) and since have been sailing only once. In the meantime I've been busy adding some improvements to the boat.<br /><br />I ordered some 8mm 'anti torsion rope' at www.allspars.co.uk. It took them ages to send the rope (and they sent it to the wrong address), but in the end it arrived.<br />This stuff is really stiff. It's a sort of bundle UD (believe it's kevlar) with a normal mantle.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWkH1FGWJAg8HQeU89TPItZvzMEC-ggm_8GbG0kgZ01Xijrxa91OVuVwteYcPSMPDHvf_ZP3E-wThH-u-dqdSLD8XLKZDQ8C3drvJpkYFm2hmkqSoJeTzPuIpQQ_eLWoJcyeGrheoKLE0/s1600-h/CIMG1060.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5381979685201872306" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; width: 400px; height: 300px; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWkH1FGWJAg8HQeU89TPItZvzMEC-ggm_8GbG0kgZ01Xijrxa91OVuVwteYcPSMPDHvf_ZP3E-wThH-u-dqdSLD8XLKZDQ8C3drvJpkYFm2hmkqSoJeTzPuIpQQ_eLWoJcyeGrheoKLE0/s400/CIMG1060.JPG" border="0" /></a> My sailmaker replaced the wire of the luff of my jib with the anti-torsion rope and at the same time shortened the luff a bit (the luff was a bit too long - with the roller in place I couldn't hoist the jib properly).<br />Big succes! The jib now furls with no problem, even with a lot of wind. That's a relief as I wasn't really pleased - understatement - with the hank-on setup. Probably OK for racing, but not for cruising.<br /><br />Because I have no pulpit I needed something else to put the mast on while trailering. I welded a sort of aluminium 'fork' and made a flanged insert of a piece of PVC-pipe and a brace made of wood.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNwueZB6Qmwe98pBtP5btmee7CctTIZx2HDUVzMfi23BgfbNF3baONMhuug82TbxIIeKi3Cy439k6GaaBrQFeDZR3GfQjqGhYjniwtob4KhVQ06xHsfNHk-naeE6P8F3HVjWvfJJzMFC8/s1600-h/CIMG1066.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5381977631219442434" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; width: 300px; height: 400px; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNwueZB6Qmwe98pBtP5btmee7CctTIZx2HDUVzMfi23BgfbNF3baONMhuug82TbxIIeKi3Cy439k6GaaBrQFeDZR3GfQjqGhYjniwtob4KhVQ06xHsfNHk-naeE6P8F3HVjWvfJJzMFC8/s400/CIMG1066.JPG" border="0" /></a> Below the setup: the insert is on the foredeck and when trailering I can just stick the fork into it. I still have to shorten the fork. Will do that when I've got the mast down. It will be easier to judge how long/short the fork should be. I'll try to make it as short as possible, so the forces on the fork and insert are as low as possible.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXFoz5JRwG2S47QcaatNxLZ3Lw6fRG4aroANj8SSiQ9xJ9gZ8letX-4fvi-cwl2YhyHsfwA6F94KiWL8Ww85tj0_DndSEk3ztqlFdZ34YHAAQNDfgzQpa8M3symhDAveFABOXeE1UX678/s1600-h/CIMG1071.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5381977622663226162" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; width: 400px; height: 300px; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXFoz5JRwG2S47QcaatNxLZ3Lw6fRG4aroANj8SSiQ9xJ9gZ8letX-4fvi-cwl2YhyHsfwA6F94KiWL8Ww85tj0_DndSEk3ztqlFdZ34YHAAQNDfgzQpa8M3symhDAveFABOXeE1UX678/s400/CIMG1071.JPG" border="0" /></a> I also altered the setup of my halyards. My choise to keep all the halyards on the mast proved to be a mistake. Now both halyards are led back to the cockpit. It seems to work fine, although I'm a bit concerned it will inhibit mast rotation. The halyards exit the mast 2,5 meter above the deck, are led to two blocks at the base of the mast, and then run through an organiser. I'll add a picture of the setup later on.<br />I put the organiser on a piece of perspex to lift it high enough for the halyards not to rub against the deck.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMeHbjkNwzMU99roeoagNEeFhcG-3tnPcye7453a_2IijUguKQaZAlYuXGmzfaOQNz3s3ZlzZHU9V4VWNoL4iFeawMRUfMzIhVWOMUyxiDrW-4mWEukU6BWNVVfw0Lh1atkgBkm-poMCg/s1600-h/CIMG1070.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5381977622002348082" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; width: 400px; height: 300px; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMeHbjkNwzMU99roeoagNEeFhcG-3tnPcye7453a_2IijUguKQaZAlYuXGmzfaOQNz3s3ZlzZHU9V4VWNoL4iFeawMRUfMzIhVWOMUyxiDrW-4mWEukU6BWNVVfw0Lh1atkgBkm-poMCg/s400/CIMG1070.JPG" border="0" /></a>I also replaced the 'bare' dyneema sk75 halyards with dyneema rope with a mantle (will hold better in the stoppers) and made them 2:1 for less compression in the mast and easier hoisting. This also is an improvement. Downside is there's a lot of halyard in the cockpit. Below is my trick to attach rope to the mast: I make flanged bushes of HDPE to prevent chafe, put it the mast (flange inside of course), put a rope through and fix it with a double figure 8-knot. I also used those bushes to attach the line for the trampoline to the wall of the aft beam mount recess.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjaurwONggoE-G_6s83vBhNQOOBmHs3bJm5fUMsdp3zXKHehsnteBfsBdlzSw85efdRIllYBEm_OmFrtoIQRfkU8KBH-YL_7MscaSvRjnb4TPpGnkeCyA4MP1GQl0zoou2P9KMU_NUIQM/s1600-h/CIMG1078.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5381977610835560114" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; width: 400px; height: 300px; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjaurwONggoE-G_6s83vBhNQOOBmHs3bJm5fUMsdp3zXKHehsnteBfsBdlzSw85efdRIllYBEm_OmFrtoIQRfkU8KBH-YL_7MscaSvRjnb4TPpGnkeCyA4MP1GQl0zoou2P9KMU_NUIQM/s400/CIMG1078.JPG" border="0" /></a> To prevent chafe of the jibsheets I glued a piece of pvc pipe cut into quarts to the cabin.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS3WgP-MMqLe1whUVHEt4PfdU-oFLHKYFh9HpmmIQ2huXwsnAAFWpeM6j5jI3JjQPHtpMzNKGWcc9ozK6K1HVnA7JV5VFbnVI6Y6ePcV95G7Gc2LsUEoDsfA8njkwUp9MpcjYodXp8ECg/s1600-h/CIMG1080.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5381977604745407778" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; width: 400px; height: 300px; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS3WgP-MMqLe1whUVHEt4PfdU-oFLHKYFh9HpmmIQ2huXwsnAAFWpeM6j5jI3JjQPHtpMzNKGWcc9ozK6K1HVnA7JV5VFbnVI6Y6ePcV95G7Gc2LsUEoDsfA8njkwUp9MpcjYodXp8ECg/s400/CIMG1080.JPG" border="0" /></a> That's it for now. More to come within a few weeks.<br />I'll be sailing a multihull race the weekend of 3/4 october and will certainly post about that weekend.(NOTE: the race was cancelled due to bad weather).<br /><div></div></div></div></div>Mennohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14171061735762814136noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3848407917773278640.post-84731180913901721212009-07-30T08:43:00.000-07:002009-07-30T08:48:23.801-07:00some good adviceTom Siemerink (<a href="http://www.f32.nl/">www.f32.nl</a>) sent me some good advice about handling the boat under power wich might be of interest for other builders. <br />I tried to translate it, but I'm not sure about the english nautical terms so I hope it's understandable.<br /><br /><br /><em>Congratulations on the launching of your boat, it's looking good. </em><br /><em>I'll give some unasked advice, hope you will benefit from it. We met a lot of the same problems.<br /><br />To 'park' the boat we use at the bow and stern of the float a big round fender. This is the only way to avoid damage and it works really well.<br />Mostly it's better to dock backwards than going forward. With a lot of wind it is in any case difficult to dock on the windward side and difficult to get away from the side downwind.<br /></em><br /><em>You're right on your site: the boat is square and light and will drift quickly. On the downwind side we like to dock against another sailboat, because you can use the round shape of that boat to sail away (motor a bit forward while keeping the back docking lines attached and then motor away backwards, or the other way around). While docking it suffices to use one docking line on the middle of the float. When you fix this line first, the boat wil go nowehere and you've got plenty time to fasten the other docking lines. In the lock we only use this one middle line (now that's the good thing about owning a square boat).</em>Mennohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14171061735762814136noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3848407917773278640.post-63095516322336918292009-07-27T14:04:00.000-07:002009-12-14T01:48:02.363-08:00Video footageA compressed clip from Luis Matos with some video of the sailing in Holland. Hope you will enjoy. Thank you Luis.<br /><br /><br /><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dxllBHqEZzHrVRMDmFAtCLVz5Lk9WlODm_OkU-a9goijkCbWjUL11yYSRxp2Rwc1imM_6TgKpbdekWQXa3FGw' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe>Mennohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14171061735762814136noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3848407917773278640.post-59546539200906987532009-07-27T02:36:00.001-07:002009-07-27T14:25:04.972-07:00test-sail-week<span style="font-size:85%;">Just back from my first week sail with my brother. We had not so good weather, still a good time, but also some problems. I started to learn about what works and what doesn't on the boat, hopefully other builders will benefit. Didn't take as much pictures as I should have, sorry. Again a lot of text. </span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Starting with something not working yet: the supports under the wingnet-support. First day one broke in the middle. I took a picture at the end of the week and now I see the other one also broke. It's not a very big deal: the supports work without the two studs underneath (especially if you make sure you lace the most outer eyes on the trampoline tight so the trampoline can't sag too much at the outer end). I will mail Ian about this, maybe he'll have to look at this part of the design. For the time being I will leave it as it is.<br />The wignet-support itself is in my opinion a really nice idea: it's looking great and it's nice to have the trampoline more or less level and above the float decks.<br /></span><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDfcVR8lt2Pf_nxMgfqip9rGFjzn-Z4We5rnlDj1kSgTqOwOrSNvd1y-rVQhfJtvW9LxJiKxW3HiiHk7Urvo9KoxgIM9We5Xmhton9WXwr3IYsp5CBQqJlrf-6bWrukEFyHbB3IW-GUWM/s1600-h/CIMG1051.JPG"><span style="font-size:85%;"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5363076101145721426" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; width: 400px; height: 300px; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDfcVR8lt2Pf_nxMgfqip9rGFjzn-Z4We5rnlDj1kSgTqOwOrSNvd1y-rVQhfJtvW9LxJiKxW3HiiHk7Urvo9KoxgIM9We5Xmhton9WXwr3IYsp5CBQqJlrf-6bWrukEFyHbB3IW-GUWM/s400/CIMG1051.JPG" border="0" /></span></a><span style="font-size:85%;">Below is a picture with the mainsail up. Upper batten is not in the sail on this photo, that's why the top is sagging. My mainsail has cars on every battens, this works ok. I made the mast a tiny bit longer than the plans specify, but maybe should have made it even longer. The mainsail only just fits, I had to fix the lower corner of the luff to the mastfoot with a shackle to get it low enough. No space to fix a tackle to tension the luff, as I planned (will have to put a cunningham in the sail).<br />I first wanted to keep the rig simple with no winch and no lines to the cockpit, but the week sailing taught me this doesn't work. I will put a winch at the cockpit + stoppers, and lead the halyards to the cockpit.<br /></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO3G6VwHe6ljR3xhjvJw_uEn7wxJb-1ElzEODa8w-574KiUsaqPRoPvejzNK7G5fWiJhKBY9li0nQdzMHZgwkTCBLuN-ZGkXCSDvPHJ0jtd3WUYS6cnesl6b7XBQLoqnzIFN-8c1-Xe-Q/s1600-h/CIMG1013.JPG"><span style="font-size:85%;"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5363076095941786482" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; width: 400px; height: 300px; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO3G6VwHe6ljR3xhjvJw_uEn7wxJb-1ElzEODa8w-574KiUsaqPRoPvejzNK7G5fWiJhKBY9li0nQdzMHZgwkTCBLuN-ZGkXCSDvPHJ0jtd3WUYS6cnesl6b7XBQLoqnzIFN-8c1-Xe-Q/s400/CIMG1013.JPG" border="0" /></span></a><span style="font-size:85%;">Looking at the picture above (third day of our sail) it's hard to imagine the day before Hans and I had rough weather and damage to the boat.<br />We planned to go sailing on saturday, but there was too much wind for a first sail (beaufort 7 = appr. 30 knots) and we stayed at the marina working on some details. Next day the forecast was better. We started on sunday morning with a nice sail with light to moderate wind, but weather changed very quickly in the afternoon with spells with winds up to 7 - 8 beaufort (or so I was told).<br />We managed to sail to the wind to the lock near our destination, got the sails down and motored to the lock. Near the lock I released the throttle of the outboard to have a good look at the situation, and the motor died. We couldn't get it going again and before we knew were blown downwind on a coast with a dam(n!) made of piled rocks. We had to be pulled off by another boat, and had considerable damage around the keel of the right float. Amazingly only a lot of deep scratches and dents, but no visible big cracks in the laminate. The sandwich panels proved to be really strong (apart from being prone to denting, that is): when we were banging on the rocks I was sure the whole float would be crushed.<br />I didn't want to sail again with an outboard I couldn't trust, and on monday I was lucky to be able to buy a quite new one and get on with the sailing-vacation.<br /><br /></span><span style="font-size:85%;">And now for something completely different: tip for other builders. Put a rubber ring between the bearing pad and the studs for the hatch. This way it's easier to firmly fix the studs in a certain angle.</span><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEXgjjFddOyexr-UAf3AlWwfVv7MF1ywXLd4fDP5EJSSK9sk9B9I09tUXpYXHvV245ng1vqe5nAJJYEDrSMapZau0yMomU8WQ7av4GTHIFF-UZqXeH__MWeAHHhAt723LSWHApRnhjyOc/s1600-h/CIMG1012.JPG"><span style="font-size:85%;"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5363076093496371586" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; width: 400px; height: 300px; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEXgjjFddOyexr-UAf3AlWwfVv7MF1ywXLd4fDP5EJSSK9sk9B9I09tUXpYXHvV245ng1vqe5nAJJYEDrSMapZau0yMomU8WQ7av4GTHIFF-UZqXeH__MWeAHHhAt723LSWHApRnhjyOc/s400/CIMG1012.JPG" border="0" /></span></a><span style="font-size:85%;">Another thing to bear in mind: the eye for the raising wires of the mast is too high for a small person to reach. On the picture below I'm stretching as high as I can. I'm 1,68 meter tall. I'm going to lower the eye 25 cm or so. When you use the raising bars at the side of the cabin, as per plan, it's probably not possible to put the eye lower because the bars won't be at the right angle anymore but I don't use the bars.</span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL9VHWUW0CoT3P5J2-FO6NiFhsP2FleJxhHw6EbVbplgMVTc9N9ebgATzmR1OZTcPRG30ksSXzLI6jYFA-HZEy0KFinv74jQNocK9cMexxXkTvO72FS3jjU-Lxfd76PcUbvKFB8dFWI_Y/s1600-h/CIMG1011.JPG"><span style="font-size:85%;"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5363076089442310770" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; width: 400px; height: 300px; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL9VHWUW0CoT3P5J2-FO6NiFhsP2FleJxhHw6EbVbplgMVTc9N9ebgATzmR1OZTcPRG30ksSXzLI6jYFA-HZEy0KFinv74jQNocK9cMexxXkTvO72FS3jjU-Lxfd76PcUbvKFB8dFWI_Y/s400/CIMG1011.JPG" border="0" /></span></a><span style="font-size:85%;"> Below a detail of the clearance of the lashing at the wingnet support. As you can see it's possible to cut the support away to - say - 4 cm to the corner of the support and still have plenty of clearance. Folded the lashings rub against the support, but I guess this is unavoidable. </span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlYvLfsbiP1Re_w8jglz33qMNw_j3phiWT9coR2QD8B9CTlmU9jP5BEAOWryL8zTY7-QtJexTwU0oKt20z8Gi9Zm9U40WbXD9vi_wggDpsS9kxzhBNAxNFK5yNiTdj-6OxWOdkK-Xdv1Q/s1600-h/CIMG1008.JPG"><span style="font-size:85%;"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5363074175431214034" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; width: 400px; height: 300px; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlYvLfsbiP1Re_w8jglz33qMNw_j3phiWT9coR2QD8B9CTlmU9jP5BEAOWryL8zTY7-QtJexTwU0oKt20z8Gi9Zm9U40WbXD9vi_wggDpsS9kxzhBNAxNFK5yNiTdj-6OxWOdkK-Xdv1Q/s400/CIMG1008.JPG" border="0" /></span></a><span style="font-size:85%;">The jib has given us a lot of trouble. In the picture below we had it on it's furler, but that only worked in easy conditions. In trying conditions, with gusting wind and in need to quickly get some sail away, it didn't work. At all. The low part of the jib would roll and the upper part wouldn't - leaving a big pile of unrolled jib banging wildly at the top of the mast. We removed the roller, made some hanks on the luff of the jib with pieces of 4 mm dyneema, and hoisted it the normal way. Some of my ideas after this week sail:</span><br /><ul><li><span style="font-size:85%;">Don't hoist the furling jib with a small line from the top of the jib through the (fixed) swiffel to the furling drum. It's a nice and clean system when it works, but a pain when it doesn't. On our first eventful sail on sunday we had to get the jib down in big winds and it wouldn't furl. Hans had to crawl to the furling drum to loosen the hoisting line. No fun at all - luckily at that time we were in open water with plenty of clearance to mess around with the jib. From now on I'll only hoist the jib with a normal halyard which can be loosened from the cockpit.<br /></span></li><li><span style="font-size:85%;">It's difficult to hoist and lower the jib (and tie it down on deck) in stronger winds and waves when the jib is not on a furler but just hanked to the forestay. The foredeck area is small to work on, especially because it's sloping down and it's got the jib in the way. We opened the front hatch to have a sort of secure position to work on the jib, but that is not ideal. I will for certain install front nets on the boat: it will help a lot to be able to safely work on things on the foredeck.<br /></span></li><li><span style="font-size:85%;">The problems with furling may be partially due to the low forestay/luff tension. I'm going to try if it's possible to put an anti-torsion cable into the luff of my jib (like the ones made by facnor) and see if that helps. If it doesn't I might switch to a full blown reefing furler with an aluminium luff profile, but I hope this won't be necessary.<br /></span></li><li><span style="font-size:85%;">With the jib low on the deck sailing to the wind it's hard to get a good view of the boats downwind. I may put a window in the jib.<br /></span></li><li><span style="font-size:85%;">Put the camcleats of the jib on blocks (1 cm or so) else you will have trouble to get the sheet in the cleats in stronger winds.<br /></span></li><li><span style="font-size:85%;">(Should have know this....) Put a piece of strong plastic on the corner of the cabin where the jib-sheet runs to the cleat, else the sheet will grind through the paint and fairing in no time.</span></li></ul><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBfVAcsboPNpjvrCK_vbMDArhp4zy1uTctVBwx_dAiUMLwpoWn8xRytoPsZyYP8nFMlg8jfzBL-dtA4BBI3xiGp68ws931s6Q0HZlddXJovDcalZK0vR_2384H1nRCnjYiOZMEJEWRtOM/s1600-h/CIMG1040.JPG"><span style="font-size:85%;"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5363074172933327762" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; width: 400px; height: 300px; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBfVAcsboPNpjvrCK_vbMDArhp4zy1uTctVBwx_dAiUMLwpoWn8xRytoPsZyYP8nFMlg8jfzBL-dtA4BBI3xiGp68ws931s6Q0HZlddXJovDcalZK0vR_2384H1nRCnjYiOZMEJEWRtOM/s400/CIMG1040.JPG" border="0" /></span></a><span style="font-size:85%;">I worked out the tiller and believe it's fine now. I started with a long tiller with a short joystick (as can be seen last two pictures on this entry) but that didn't work because the sheet + traveler line were tangled in the tiller + joystick every time you tacked.<br />Now I've shortened the tiller to be just long enough to stay in front of the traveler, and made a two-sided joystick. Both sides are 2,5 meter long. They are fixed to the front of the tiller, and the mainsheet hangs in front of the tiller and the joysticks, and doesn't get tangled anymore. The joysticks are made of two pieces of 3/4" pvc electricity pipe, a piece of reinforced pvc tube from a kite shop as the pivot and three bolts. It cost me about 6 dollar alltogether and it works fine.</span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8-DTcXHI4E7v5Zu-EaaS96R4EgGDnW4mUx0s17to7JI9AcRaFk44ek0f1F3oYko8WK5uuk2xq1lShCZK0UVUgemBib4p_zj7FGdSvycO4A2thll451tWxC7qtGE8xw9qOiJgjaSehRmg/s1600-h/CIMG1049.JPG"><span style="font-size:85%;"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5363074168734836786" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; width: 400px; height: 300px; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8-DTcXHI4E7v5Zu-EaaS96R4EgGDnW4mUx0s17to7JI9AcRaFk44ek0f1F3oYko8WK5uuk2xq1lShCZK0UVUgemBib4p_zj7FGdSvycO4A2thll451tWxC7qtGE8xw9qOiJgjaSehRmg/s400/CIMG1049.JPG" border="0" /></span></a><span style="font-size:85%;"> On tuesday and wednesday Luis Matos from Portugal (wearing the hat on the picture below) paid a visit to check out the boat for real and to get some ideas for his own build. He's an experienced sailor and could give me some good advice. Luckily those two days were good sailing days, and we had some really nice trips and time to get to know the boat in normal conditions.</span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghuQ63HoZ8YAaD5Ry0VIHn5_SUZzYwlqWp-KKPhSqYOT6wv5S_xEZFntnIkkesTcLSvCYdXQuffMOX9pZ0g2Dt_5QkWA-iTofnsgfF4Eoav62msd51K0QGiqcuutavCUuDdnVJAAjsNPk/s1600-h/CIMG1027.JPG"><span style="font-size:85%;"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5363074164073608562" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; width: 400px; height: 300px; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghuQ63HoZ8YAaD5Ry0VIHn5_SUZzYwlqWp-KKPhSqYOT6wv5S_xEZFntnIkkesTcLSvCYdXQuffMOX9pZ0g2Dt_5QkWA-iTofnsgfF4Eoav62msd51K0QGiqcuutavCUuDdnVJAAjsNPk/s400/CIMG1027.JPG" border="0" /></span></a><span style="font-size:85%;"> Time to sum up some of the impressions about sailing and motoring the boat:</span></p><ul><li><span style="font-size:85%;">The folding is just amazing and works really well effortlessly.<br /></span></li><li><span style="font-size:85%;">The boat sails really well, also in choppy (but not too high) waves. It is VERY dry compared to the monohulls I've sailed in similar conditions.<br /></span></li><li><span style="font-size:85%;">To the wind we were at least as fast as much bigger monohulls, downwind the same thing when there is not too much wind. With more wind the boat picks up speed and leaves the monohulls behind fast.<br /></span></li><li><span style="font-size:85%;">The boat will pick up speed to about 7-8 knots easily, and then seems to stay on that speed until there is enough wind to really push it. Then it will suddenly accelerate fast to above 10 knots. Top speed so far has been about 13.5 knots with jib and single reefed main and for me that was fast enough for this first week. The rig + sails still need a lot of tuning (luff of the mainsail is not tensioned right, for instance) so I guess there is room to improve.<br /></span></li><li><span style="font-size:85%;">When the boat goes over 10 knots, it lifts up the bow of the main hull a bit like a powerboat on speed. I was a bit surprised, because I thought the bow would be pressed down a lot when powering.<br /></span></li><li><span style="font-size:85%;">Although the jib tracks are short, they are long enough to trim the jib if you also have a plate at the back of the jib to change the sheeting angle.<br /></span></li><li><span style="font-size:85%;">With the boomless main you need the 6:1 + 4:1 = 24:1 sheet system, else you won't be able to sheet in the main far enough to go to the wind.<br /></span></li><li><span style="font-size:85%;">Not sure about the trimming of the mainsail yet. While reaching it has the tendency to twist a lot and hang against the shrouds, even with the traveler all the way out. Going to the wind twist control with the traveler seems ok.<br /></span></li><li><span style="font-size:85%;">Getting alongside the dock under power is difficult because the boat is more or less square. When the bow of the float is nearly at the dockside you usually have to make a sharp turn, but when you do that the boat will more or less pivot around your centerboard and will be in line with the dockside but about 1,5 meter away from it. Hope the drawing below will help to explain.<br /></span></li></ul><span style="font-size:85%;"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5363140919572087218" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; width: 400px; height: 250px; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIn63oU0xYmShO5STctsyrI-zQM5Y8haaM6vOyb69nrleVKPYa99dw7cq4_jupdoyBTAvWdM5Vd7k4uml2IC7nqG5NBNCIpyPni7wxjWVNdirRmLZHw4IXObE3koOzKWXm1sqgccSajzg/s400/turning.bmp" border="0" />Maybe taking the centerboard up might help a bit, but then the boat will drift even more. First thing I'm going to try is to put big fenders, or maybe even permanent rubber profiles, on the bow of the floats so I can just 'park' the nose of the boat against the dockside and then push the back to the dockside with the motor.<br /></span><ul><li><span style="font-size:85%;">Last thing: camping in the boat is going fine! I thought it would be a bit cramped, but it works out very good. I've got a lot of interior room because of the centerboard, maybe it will be a bit more cramped with the daggerboard case. With the all white basic interior with blue cushions and the pop top raised a bit it's a nice place to stay when it's raining outside.<br />Luis took a small tent and put that on the trampoline to sleep. That worked well also.<br /></span></li></ul><p><span style="font-size:85%;">And finally: this makes it all worthwile for me. Sailing your self-built boat on a sunny day doing 12 knots effortlessly with almost no heel.<br /></span></p><div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_AVIKLkjaya7LGUE1fkpYPdF1XSgEZ53CZOjt45ynpX6M0bWBiXEHQaW8lIMB4hZI7sDA5tIqkUsJoC5sf8OryudvaEYr_2ZQiUDL-bpche-teP991K63cikFkV8pIsnQOS-5HPz1GW4/s1600-h/CIMG1025.JPG"><span style="font-size:85%;"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5363074159576077986" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; width: 400px; height: 300px; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_AVIKLkjaya7LGUE1fkpYPdF1XSgEZ53CZOjt45ynpX6M0bWBiXEHQaW8lIMB4hZI7sDA5tIqkUsJoC5sf8OryudvaEYr_2ZQiUDL-bpche-teP991K63cikFkV8pIsnQOS-5HPz1GW4/s400/CIMG1025.JPG" border="0" /></span></a><span style="font-size:85%;"> </span><div></div></div></div>Mennohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14171061735762814136noreply@blogger.com1