donderdag 7 juni 2018

Square top mainsail - top batten trick

Until recently I always had to put in or remove the top batten of the mainsail when hoisting and dropping the mainsail. On internet I found a very easy solution to keep the batten in the sail.
The trick is to not fix the top of the sail permanently to the top slider, but to make a tackle with dyneema with one end fixed to one of the lower sliders. Pictures are probably better than words, so....








Once the mainsail is raised and the distance between the lower sliders and the topslider increases, the tackle is tensioned and the top of the sail is fixed to the topslider.
sail down
starting the hoist: lo and behold it works




Tackle is tightening and will be tight with sail hoisted about two meters.

First I had doubts it would work, but at least for my size of sail it does.
The dyneema rope is slippery enough to not get stuck and the topslider doesn't get stuck either.


By the way: the top block on the mainsail is a climbing block: very strong, light and durable and way cheaper than sailing-blocks.


Next post: trailer-extension

vrijdag 1 juni 2018

New anti-torsion cable - PERFECT!




The standard anti-torsion rope on my jib has never impressed me much. Especially with a lot of wind, when you need it to work, it doesn't. The top of the jib would not furl because the line was not stiff enough (and probably because there is relatively little tension on the anti-torsion line compared to fixed mast-boats).


Old anti-torsion Rope


I replaced the line with Harken Reflex anti torsion rope. This rope is a normal anti-torsion rope but with a braided stainless steel cover round that rope. What a difference! I am usually a bit sceptical about claims of new products, but this works perfect for my setup.





Harken Reflex Rope
The rope can be bought with expensive end-terminals, but I made them very cheap with aluminium press-sleeves, just for the fun of trying to replace some stuff with diy-parts.

Here is a test-piece with a normal alu press-sleeve I used:
 

Unlike the official terminals it is a permanent fix: to remove the sleeve it has to be carefully cut into multiple pieces:

For extra security i tapped some m5 machine screws into the press sleeve to further lock the cable, but in hindsight this is overkill.


My cheap trick to press the sleeves, step 1: put sleeve in a vice with to big steel nails as 'press die' to (pre)form the sleeve.


My cheap trick to press the sleeves, step 2: use some threaded rod, some steel bar, a small hydraulic jack and again a steel nail to get some real pressure on the the already preformed sleeve:

 


Next post: mainsail top batten-tackle....













donderdag 8 juni 2017

Bow nets


I bought some regular dyneema SK75 and at a fisheries-supply- shop a 'netting needle'....
 
.... to knot my own bow nets.

I extended the nets a bit by using the all purpose-eye on the float to support the net. 


Knotting the nets was good fun. I use the nets to store fenders, to attach the front mooring-line, and as some extra security while moving on the boat. Plus my children and wife like to use them to hang out while sailing in calm conditions.




maandag 22 mei 2017

floating hull scrubber

After my last post I dit some work on the boat and the trailer but my Phone with the pictures crashed. I will make some pictures of the trailer shortly and put them on my blog.

In the meantime:

My anti  fouling is not up to the task of keeping the bottem clean enough. As an alternative to getting the boat out of the water and on stands to clean the bottom (can't do it on the trailer because I made the 'farrier-style' fitting tub on the trailer so most of the bottom is not in reach while on the trailer) I made a 'floating scrubber' with some pvc pipe, wood and a piece of doormat. 

I didn't try to build it to last a long time, only to see if this idea would work.



The idea is the bend stick allows you to reach the whole bottom with the scrubber, while the buoyancy provides enough force to effectively scrub the bottom.



I used the scrubber while sitting in a small inflatable boat and it worked quite well. The scrubber was a bit too bouyant; I'll make another version with a bit smaller piece of PVC pipe and that will probably become my scrubber for the coming years.

Unfortunately it didn't get all of the fouling off, which was not a big surprise. The boat has been in salt water for over two years now. End of season I will get the boat out, do a very thorough cleaning and anti-fouling. After that I will use the scrubber as an extra to keep the bottom tidy.

Next post: bow nets.

vrijdag 1 mei 2015

New tiller

The way the rudder cassette on the F22 is designed is probably optimised for a boom-ed mainsail with the traveler in the middle of the cockpit. 
With a boomless main the traveller is at the end of the cockpit, and a straight tiller is sticking too much 'up' to pass under the traveller. 

I fixed this by shortening the tiller just as much as not to go before the traveller. It works ok, but I'd rather have a bit longer tiller. So....

I made a 'frankenstein-mock up' of a tiller with enough bends to move under the traveller with enough space to make sure the main sheet won't interfere too much with the tiller.

Frankenstein mock up attached to the original short tiller.
Used the mock up to drwaw the outline of the new tiller on a piece of board and glued a foam blank...


I used FEM analysis to calculate the thickness of carbon UD -sure... but only in my dreams. In reality I just put some tapered carbon UD leftovers on top and bottom of tiller and will see if it works. Tiller will subsequently be wrapped in some 200 gr glass tape.

I have never managed to find a good way to laminate/wrap round objects/parts. This time I laminated the tiller and pressed the laminate by wrapping it in pieces of plastic and securing this by wrapping the whole tiller with paint-tape. it worked (no bubbles) but the laminate was quite rough/uneven.

'bagging' with pieces of plastic and paint-tape.
A tip I won't stop to repeat because it was such an eye-opener for me: use tile-cutting blades in a jigsaw or even better on a 'multimaster' type of saw to cut fiberglass. Blades last forever and hardly any mess and itching glassdust.
getting ready...

less than 30 seconds later it's finished
Below the old and the new tiller. The new tiller is quite long, I hope it can withstand up-down forces if someone accidentally falls on it because it is a quite hefty lever.

Using expensive and heavy joysticks on the F22 is a waste of money in my opinion. Cheapo grey pvc elektricity pipe works great: it's light, a bit flexible and most importantly it doesn't damage the paint of the boat when it's laying around in the cockpit.

jostick with two pieces of pvc-pipe and a coupler made of  reinforces hose
End result below. I will first test the tiller and see if it works in real life, if the joysticks are mounted at the right spot etc.
If it works I may put a remote control of the outboard on the tiller, by putting a motorcycle throttle and a shift-stick at the end of the tiller. Not sure yet if I will do it, as it will add complexity BUT on the other hand it will be so much easier to steer in tight situations on motor. Maybe to be continued....


Next post: fitting cheapy death sounder

donderdag 23 april 2015

Bending the jib traveler






After a long pause it is time to update my blog a bit. Unfortunately I lost some photos of last years, but luckily there are enough left to show most of the progress & projects.

I put a self-tacking jib on my boat (very nice for easy cruising, although not so efficient for going downwind as top of the jib twists too much because of the way the jib is sheeted) and originally I made a straight traveler. I thought this would work because with a straight traveler the jibsheet has maximum slack when going from one side to the other. I was wrong: with a bit wind the cars of the traveler would stop about 15 cm before the end of the traveler. So.... I had to put some radius in the traveler.

Bending

On internet there are some very nice examples of people making bending jigs for travelers, this one is my favourite. But sometimes it's better to do it the easy way.... I just guesstimated the required radius (taking into account some springback) and used a band-saw and a piece of timber to make a 'mold'.
Some heavy clamps and......






even more bending
.... it turned out my guess of the springback was too conservative, so I just used some extra pieces of wood at the end of the traveler to increase the radius of the bend some more.

End result:

And on the boat:


Succes! This slight bend of the traveler made a big difference: jibsheet travels without any problems from one end to the other, every time.

Next post will be about a new tiller (+ ideas about remote control outboard)

dinsdag 18 juni 2013

Some work on the rig: new shroud-anchors, halyard re-installed and furler

My side shrouds were anchored in the mast with 2 6mm dyneema loops (basically soft shackles) with stopper knots. After reading some reports of test of the breaking strength of soft shackles on this very nice site, I decided to redo the loops. Seems diamond knots have way bigger impact on breaking strength than we thought.

This time we used a new type dyneema (DM20), in europe it's used to make a new product called dynastay, a very stiff and compact 12 strand type dyneema line, with nearly no creep. Probably a bit like dyna dux, but I couldn't source dux in the Netherlands.
Breaking load is 5200 kg (!!!) for 6 mm rope, more than enough because breaking load of the shrouds should be 4200 kg as per plans.


Quality of pictures is not so good lately, I'll have to dig out my old camera as the phone camera is not really up to the task.

With the mast down I also had to reinsert a halyard. After a lot of failed attempts with the tool to guide electrical wire (sorry, don't know english word) my brother thought of possibly the best way to guide the line I have ever seen: just tape some of the sail battens of the mainsail together and stick them into the mast. Within a few minutes the halyard was set again.


To replace some longe stainless steel strips which were used to attach my furler-drum to the forestay-rack, we made a dyneema loop - partly covered with some flexible pvc hose. This loop can withstand enought torque to keep the furler pointing in the right direction. The loose ends were of course removed, tapered and stitched later on....




With the close up picture the wear on the finish of the boat realy shows. My plan is to repair/repaint all the visible exterior of the boat this winter.

Next posts will be on sails. I'm eagerly awaiting a new jib (self tacking, made by de vries-UK) and a new mainsail (made by Doyle in New Zealand).