When painting the first coat I made a big mistake trying to mix all the paint in one go and mixed way too much. This time I mixed some paint, painted the bottom of the hull and one hullside first (weighing the amount of paint needed for both parts of the hull) and then I knew exactly how much more extra paint I needed to mix for the last hullside. It's pretty obvious this is the way to do it. It's a shame I had to screw up the first time.
Before turning the hull for the last time I'm going to put some wax on and put the centerboard in. Below are the parts for the centerboard: sheave assembly (plexiglass + tuffnol sheaves), alu cover plate for control line exit, a bumper-stop for the centerboard made of a piece of PVC-tube filled with putty, and a cap to cover the pivot-pin made of cutting board (HDPE). I bought an antique Unimat SL lathe to experiment a bit, and the recess in the pivot pin cap was the first practical thing I made on the lathe.
Here's a picture of the control-lines and the sheave assembly. The top of the plexiglass spacers is level with the cover of the centerboardcase, so the lines will be retained. The bumper-stop is visible below the sheaves. Earlier on I couldn't decide how to finish the interior of the centerboard case, but now I had to make a decision. Searching the internet I found people telling it's absolutely NOT necessary to use anti-fouling in a centerboard case, and people telling exactly the opposite.
To be sure I put coppercoat on the centerboard and the case interior, and regretted a lot I didn't decide earlier about the finish and paint the case before assembly. It was a terrible job to get the coppercoat properly inside the case.
Although I will keep the boat on the trailer for now, it's nice to know that when I decide to put it in the water permanently I only have to antifoul the hull and don't have to worry about the centerboard and the centerboard-case.
According to the plans a washer should be welded at the end of the centerboard pivot pin and this should be screwed to the doubler. This seems to me a bit difficult solution (for instance: washer should be welded perfectly square) and my idea is it is easier and more leak-proof to retain the pin by screwing a cap over it.
The cap is a bit small. I'm going to make a bigger version.
The rudder + case is almost ready. I used nylon m6-threaded rod instead of alu bolts to retain the block at the back of the ruddercase. Put stainless bolts on the nylon rod, just for the 'bling'.
Going to try to make my own PETP bushes on the lathe, not to save time or money but because I want to make as much parts as possible myself.