vrijdag 28 december 2007
dinsdag 25 december 2007
Deck is now laminated with UD in place and plastic on top. With the help of my brother it took about 2,5 hours with preparation.
zondag 23 december 2007
I'll glass the deck first, so I can turn the hull upside down without risking damageing the foam.
vrijdag 14 december 2007
However, on some spots I just couldn't get this quality. For some reason the cloth kept some wite-ish small spots, no matter how much epoxy I added. The cloth is laying flat against the foam, no bubble. This problem (or is it?) has occured on all laminates till now, pre-wetted or not, pre-coated or not and with and without peelply and plastic. I think it looks a bit like the 'bad' spots Grant (see link section) found when laminating with peelply and plastic.
donderdag 13 december 2007
Now I only have to take the afternoon off from work and properly wet out this 9 square meters of cloth within 4 hours. Easy enough..........hopefully.
maandag 10 december 2007
Lesson learned: don't try to 'plastic' multiple-curved surfaces with one big sheet of plastic, or you'll mainly be busy trying to get rid of creases. The creases fill up with epoxy, leaving a ridge after removing the plastic. It's much easier to work with overlapping 70 cm wide pieces of plastic. Luckily it'ts easy to remove the ridge.
- It's still important to wet out and smooth out the cloth as well
as you can before putting on the plastic: with the plastic on it's easy to get rid of small imperfections and air-bubbles and excess resin, but NOT to shift the cloth in a major way, and
- I hoped it would be possible to use the 'dry-method' with plastic, but that didn't work. On the spots I didn't pre-wet I still had a hard time to get the cloth well adhered to the foam: it just doesn't tack to the foam right away on all spots, and adding more epoxy is of no use. Does this sound familiar to other builders using divinycell? On spots with putty/ply I don't experience this problem. So it's obvious: I should build a ply stich&glue boat!
Now serious: I'm planning to see if it helps to coat the foam with a thin layer of epoxy and let it cure before laminating so I can use the 'dry method' for the lower hull half exterior.
vrijdag 7 december 2007
Two more flat areas are planed on the edges of the first planed flat area. The 'rounding' now consists of three flat areas. I tried to mark the outline of the two new flats, but that was pretty useless (not accurate enough)
Finishing: sand the four edges of the three flats down a bit, then round the whole edge with diagonal strokes of the longboard (lonboard of course in line with the edge). It came out pretty decent. Maybe some small highs and lows, but I can't fix that in this stage. The foam is too soft: when I fix one spot I'll probably sand a bit too far on another spot of the edge. I'll get it totally right when fairing the exterior with putty.
maandag 3 december 2007
I had forgotten how easy it is to sand the foam (using grit 40). It's actually quite nice and quick work. My twinbrother sanded most of the lower half of the hull in one afternoon. The bow stilll needs some work. By the way, the foam-strip-longboard (see foregoing post) works ok, but so does a much more rigid longboard I made from a two-side laminated foamstrip.
Centerboard case has been trimmed with an electric planer to roughly match the hull. First I'll fill all the gaps, then I'll sand the last bit with a longboard.
Yet another picture of the sanded hull....
I'm also starting work on the deck. In the cutout-areas of the deck I'll put some putty in place before laminating. Afterwards I can just cut the section without having to dig out and fill the foam-edges. Here is an example of the pre-filled edge for the hole in the bow. I use a very accurate festool router to remove approximately 19 mm of the 20 mm foam thickness.
Next I'll have to round the edges of the deck to the cabin-side and the hull. The plans state it can be well rounded, but how? Should I do it just with a longboard and some guesstimating (flatten the corner with a longboard - I mean: sand the corner down to for instance a 3 cm wide flat ridge and then round the two 'new' corners with a longboard)? Or maybe I can do the edges with a piece of PVC-pipe with sandpaper glued within, but it might be difficult to get a nice even corner on a long stretch.
If anyone has a good trick or tip I would be really glad.