vrijdag 28 december 2007
dinsdag 25 december 2007
Deck is now laminated with UD in place and plastic on top. With the help of my brother it took about 2,5 hours with preparation.
zondag 23 december 2007
I'll glass the deck first, so I can turn the hull upside down without risking damageing the foam.
vrijdag 14 december 2007
However, on some spots I just couldn't get this quality. For some reason the cloth kept some wite-ish small spots, no matter how much epoxy I added. The cloth is laying flat against the foam, no bubble. This problem (or is it?) has occured on all laminates till now, pre-wetted or not, pre-coated or not and with and without peelply and plastic. I think it looks a bit like the 'bad' spots Grant (see link section) found when laminating with peelply and plastic.
donderdag 13 december 2007
Now I only have to take the afternoon off from work and properly wet out this 9 square meters of cloth within 4 hours. Easy enough..........hopefully.
maandag 10 december 2007
Lesson learned: don't try to 'plastic' multiple-curved surfaces with one big sheet of plastic, or you'll mainly be busy trying to get rid of creases. The creases fill up with epoxy, leaving a ridge after removing the plastic. It's much easier to work with overlapping 70 cm wide pieces of plastic. Luckily it'ts easy to remove the ridge.
- It's still important to wet out and smooth out the cloth as well
as you can before putting on the plastic: with the plastic on it's easy to get rid of small imperfections and air-bubbles and excess resin, but NOT to shift the cloth in a major way, and
- I hoped it would be possible to use the 'dry-method' with plastic, but that didn't work. On the spots I didn't pre-wet I still had a hard time to get the cloth well adhered to the foam: it just doesn't tack to the foam right away on all spots, and adding more epoxy is of no use. Does this sound familiar to other builders using divinycell? On spots with putty/ply I don't experience this problem. So it's obvious: I should build a ply stich&glue boat!
Now serious: I'm planning to see if it helps to coat the foam with a thin layer of epoxy and let it cure before laminating so I can use the 'dry method' for the lower hull half exterior.
vrijdag 7 december 2007
Two more flat areas are planed on the edges of the first planed flat area. The 'rounding' now consists of three flat areas. I tried to mark the outline of the two new flats, but that was pretty useless (not accurate enough)
Finishing: sand the four edges of the three flats down a bit, then round the whole edge with diagonal strokes of the longboard (lonboard of course in line with the edge). It came out pretty decent. Maybe some small highs and lows, but I can't fix that in this stage. The foam is too soft: when I fix one spot I'll probably sand a bit too far on another spot of the edge. I'll get it totally right when fairing the exterior with putty.
maandag 3 december 2007
I had forgotten how easy it is to sand the foam (using grit 40). It's actually quite nice and quick work. My twinbrother sanded most of the lower half of the hull in one afternoon. The bow stilll needs some work. By the way, the foam-strip-longboard (see foregoing post) works ok, but so does a much more rigid longboard I made from a two-side laminated foamstrip.
Centerboard case has been trimmed with an electric planer to roughly match the hull. First I'll fill all the gaps, then I'll sand the last bit with a longboard.
Yet another picture of the sanded hull....
I'm also starting work on the deck. In the cutout-areas of the deck I'll put some putty in place before laminating. Afterwards I can just cut the section without having to dig out and fill the foam-edges. Here is an example of the pre-filled edge for the hole in the bow. I use a very accurate festool router to remove approximately 19 mm of the 20 mm foam thickness.
Next I'll have to round the edges of the deck to the cabin-side and the hull. The plans state it can be well rounded, but how? Should I do it just with a longboard and some guesstimating (flatten the corner with a longboard - I mean: sand the corner down to for instance a 3 cm wide flat ridge and then round the two 'new' corners with a longboard)? Or maybe I can do the edges with a piece of PVC-pipe with sandpaper glued within, but it might be difficult to get a nice even corner on a long stretch.
If anyone has a good trick or tip I would be really glad.
dinsdag 27 november 2007
Cockpitfloor flange + plenty glue
Cockpitfloor glued and temporarily held in place with woodblocks and a piece of wood between the beam bulkheads to keep the floor straight.
As I'm almost done taping the interior panels, I have to prepare for the dreaded longboarding. I'm experimenting with a poor-man's longboard: it's just a piece of foam with one layer of tape on top and two wooden blocks as handles. I tried to glue sandpaper with spray glue, but that didn't stick. After that I used ready made wallpaper glue: this works ok but takes a while to set enough. If the longboard works well, I'll make a few so I'll never have to wait for the glue to set.
Once I've done some sanding I'll report if the longboard works. I hope so: it's cheap to make and VERY light.
vrijdag 23 november 2007
Second half of bunktop glued in place. I use wooden blocks with screws to temporarily fix the panel. The screw-holes will be filled while taping the joints. It is very satisfying to put these large panels in the hull - it really makes a big difference in the way the hull looks on the inside.
Glueing the ruddermount with a level to check it's ..ehm..level. It's held in place with some wooden sticks, one screw and the tube (which is held at the right height with a piece of wood clamped to form frame 12).
My plan is to do all the internal taping of the ruddermount before placing the second cockpitfloor panel, instead of doing it later. To me doing it now seems much easier than trying to tape the mount through a temporary hole in the cockpitfloor (as per plans). Or am I missing something here?
dinsdag 20 november 2007
- it's very easy to see where there's air in the laminate, and its very easy to get rid of the air by squeeging the bubble to the edge of the plastic;
- it's difficult to know for sure, but to me it seems the cloth is much more 'compact' and well adhered;
- after removing the plastic the surface is very smooth with the weave (almost) filled; it will probably be easy to sand it without sanding too much into the cloth;
- unlike working with peel ply it's easy to see what is happening to the cloth;
- the edge of the cloth blends in very nice;
- the plastic-trick works for flat surfaces and doesn't work in corners (can't plie it without a lot of wrinkels)
The first results are encouraging and I''ll go on using this technique. For now I only used it to laminate on top of already sheeted foam, I'm not sure it will work as well on bare foam. We'll see.I tried to take some nice pictures, but I wasn't able to get very good ones.
Posting them anyway....
foam bedded for placing rudder web
Laminating the last layer of cloth (UD) on the rudder web, this time in an ordinary garbage bag, heated to speed up curing
woensdag 14 november 2007
Laminating the bobstay anchor wasn't a big succes. Laminating ('wrapping') pieces this small is still not my cup of tea. To continue moaning: the fit in the hull wasn't very good either. But it's no use crying over spilled milk. Currently the final layer of C is curing so tomorrow I'll glue the anchor in place and be done with it. I decided to try use vacuum to force the last layer of cloth tight around the piece. I used an ordinary shopping-bag and a tie-wrap. This works really well.
I'm also working on the rudder web. I made two jigs to glue the gudgeons exactly alligned.
vrijdag 9 november 2007
On the outside of the upper half I screwed a batten along the whole joint, held in place with scrap piece of wood which overlap the joint. See the picture below. In the bow section I couldn't use woodblocks, so I only used screws (the joint is not flat in this area). Picture of the extra batten on the outside.
The preparation took about one hour (taking it easy mode) and was well worth it. After putting some putty on the joint it was simply a matter of clamping the battens together - 2 meters at a time, starting from the bow - and correcting any misalignment by screweing some extra blocks to the outside batten to pull the battens in line. See the picture below. By the way: this part had a gap, and needed more clamps than usual.
After aligning and clamping the battens together, I fixed them with some screws and went on clamping the next two meters. The whole process only took about one hour (taking it easy mode).
Result: an IMO very nice joint.
maandag 5 november 2007
Impression of joined hull (rotated, of course). Looks quite roomy for a relatively small boat.
I bedded the foam-insert in glue, then glued the bow web on top and used the squeezed out glue to more-or-less form a fillet on the inside. After that I taped on the inside in the still wet fillet, thinking this would give a better bond than waiting for the glue to set and trying to sand in this difficult to reach area.
I wasn't really pleased with the way the bow web looked, as it was a bit chunky and messy because of all the glass overlaps and carbon-tapes. However, after fitting the bow web it became clear how little of it will ever be visible again. Of course I knew that by reading the plan, but somehow it's different to see it right before your eyes in stead of on a piece of paper. The front of the bow web is the only 'messy' place visible. I'll tidy it up after glassing the outside of the hull.