Last weekend me and my twin brother Hans have been busy hoisting the two floats and a lot of wood for making the frames and strongback to my workshop. Then we made the strongback, and leveled it with a tube fillled with water. Last few days I've been busy setting up the frames and putting most of the battens in place. Just like Jay (see the links section) did, I put an extra batten in place to support the (future) plywood insert at the bottom of the hull.
The workshop is quite full now.
Putting the battens on the frames is quite straightforward, except in the bow section where the battens have to be twisted a lot. Tip for future builders: don't put battens in the 'straight section' just below the gunwale-line until you're finished planking the main bottom section. You'll have better access.
I made four 30 cm wide foam strips out of one foam panel and test-fitted one strip. It bends in quite easily without heating the foam. I use Divinycell foam in stead of the corecell most builders seem to use. Maybe corecell is more ridgid and doesn't bend this easily.
Just like Jay I wonder what benefit heat-bending the foam will have? As long as I can bend the foam without breaking and without much force, I don't really see the point in heating the foam with all the extra work and the risk of deforming it in not wanted ways. Any thoughts on this are much appreciated! For now I'll start heating the foam slightly in the first (lowest) curve and see how it goes. I heated the first test strip like this - but a bit too long on one spot which made a brown mark on it. No damage done, however.